We continue with the Zen Chic Triangle Quilt Along: In Block 8 you now move up to the master class for Foundation Paper Piecings. You have already confidently mastered the technique in the last few blocks. Now it will be focused on small parts and multiple parts. But have no fear; if Ly is able to grasp it as a beginner, then you will be able to as well.
Because this block takes a bit more time and the holidays are right around the corner, more time is provided before the next block. That one won’t start until the new year. Surely you will be able to find a couple of hours somewhere between Christmas and New Year’s Day to dedicate to Block 8.
To help you avoid throwing off your schedule by procrastinating (ask me what I know about this), I’ll give you a little incentive. Consider it
An Intermediate bonus:
Whoever is able to sew all the blocks in this Triangle Quilt Along up to no. 8 by January 5, 2018 (*with a photo on Instagram or in the community as verification—more information on that at the end of the article), can win something. To be eligible for the prize, sew at least one block from no. 1 to no. 8, i.e. a minimum of 8 total. So I am just throwing it out there now as motivation: I have a thread box from Aurifl, 12 x 1300 m, in shades of blue, the perfect match for TRUE BLUE. This is quite the treat because it also has russet-colored and gold contrast thread, as well as multicolored thread. Perfect for quilting. Valued at over 100 EUR.
The drawing is open to everyone who has finished all eight of the different blocks by January 5, 2018, and provides proof (*see the end of the article). So roll up your sleeves and get to work!
Triangle no. 8 from the Triangle Quilt Along
First, please print out five pages of the attached paper pattern (for 5 finished blocks).
Using the small triangle stencils from this pattern, cut out 16 triangles—10 out of material A and 6 out of contrasting material B (the stencils already include the necessary seam allowances).
First, roughly cut the individual segments from the paper pattern. There is no need to cut right on the line for the seam allowance. Start with the bottom-most segment (with seven triangles). Sew on the printed side with the material placed on the blank (back) side of the paper, and in the numerical sequence.
Place a small triangle of material A on area 1 with the right side facing up on the blank side of the paper, so that it completely covers the triangle 1 of the graphic.You can check this by holding the paper up to the light.
Once this triangle is placed correctly, set another small triangle of material B exactly on top with edges matching for area 2, specifically on the side of the triangle adjacent to area 2. Pin. Then sew from the printed side of the paper, again with a stitch length of 1.5.
After the triangle has been sewn on, you can fold the paper on the seam and cut off the excess material to ¼”.
Using the same technique, sew on the triangles for areas 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7.
Then cut the segment exactly along the outside line of the seam allowance, but don’t tear the paper off yet because it will still be used.
Using the same technique, sew both other segments with the five triangles and the three triangles one after the other. The top triangle for the tip remains just as it is.
Once the three segments have been prepared to this point, then it’s time to sew them together. To do so, first place the 7th and the 5th segment with the right sides together, as shown in the photo to the right. The straight edges are congruent and they lay centered exactly on top of each other.
They are now attached this way. However, do not use pins. Putting pins through two layers of paper and two layers of fabric with the seam allowance can cause a distortion: it causes small “bumps” and you are no longer able to match up the control points with each other.
For the FPP there is something a bit more suitable—Wonderclips. You can see them in my photo. If it’s a Saturday evening, all the stores are closed, and you have no Wonderclips but you absolutely want to get this finished, then you can also use clothespins. But the Wonderclips have a big advantage in that the bottom half of the clip is very flat, so it is easy to push them in as far as the sewing foot. Believe me—the purchase pays off. I use them all the time for thick material for pockets, for binding, and for inserting zippers.
Now you have both parts centered, attached directly on top of each other with right sides together and sewed exactly on the marked line.
Using the same technique, now sew on the 3rd segment, and finally the loose small triangle of material A.
In order to complete the triangle shape, cut the small triangle at the top in the extension of both side edges and trim the upper edge. Now you can tear off the paper.
Yeah, I know—that was kind of tricky! It’s the biggest hurdle of all the triangles. But you can do it!
Congratulations, you can now be called an FPP master (and for the remaining blocks, I’ll say once again: it only gets easier).
A remark for all those who have a very perfectionist way of working, or for those who simply want to achieve precise matching points, I would like to describe how to improve the matching points:
Insert a pin vertically through the matching point. Really vertical! First through the matching point on the upper layer with paper and then through the matching point, which is indicated by the fabrics on the lower layer. Now all layers have been spiked exactly the same as on a shashlik skewer (keep the pin always nice and vertical). That’s what you do with all the points that have to fit exactly to each other. So you have a series of shashlik skewers. Now you take the wonder clips and clamp these layers between the shashlik skewers; as long as the pins are in there, nothing can slip. Once the wonder clips are in, the pins can be removed. At this stage, all matching points sjould be aligned correctly and congruently.
Now, however, one must also pay attention to something when sewing, namely: the fabrics have their own material thickness, i. e. if you sew exactly on the seam line printed on the paper and press the seam apart afterwards, then the triangular tips are slightly cut off, because the fabrics cannot be folded apart nanometer exactly, but are swallowed around a thread wide in the seam. Therefore, it is best to sew a hair wide within the seam allowance, i. e. the sewing machine needle always stitches exactly to the right of the printed seam line. Thus, nothing of the fabric in the seam is “swallowed” and the laces fit exactly on top of each other.
We need a total of five of these triangles. For those who are less confident in their abilities, just completing one of these is enough to participate in the drawing for the Triangle Quilt Along.
Take a photo of blocks 1 to 8, so that it is clear that you are up to date. Post the photo
- either on Instagram with the hashtag #berninagiveaway
- or in the community by using the title or project name “Interim Drawing” and select the hands-on activity “Triangles Quilt-Along” (see photo).
It is important that you either use the hashtag on Instagram or the terms in the community, because this is the only way to determine the winner.
I will notify the winner soon after January 5, 2018.