As already announced in the sewing instructions for the cocktail dress, the designer Mathias Ackermann has sewn not only the extravagant embroidered dress but also the matching golden jacket. This was made of a noble organza silk.

The pattern and sewing instructions are available for free here in our blog. We wish you lots of fun while sewing and wearing the golden jacket – which you can of course also sew in any other color!

Matching Jacket for the cocktail dress

Materials

• 1.5 m dupioni silk, 140 cm wide
• 1.5 m dupioni silk, 140 cm wide for facing and bias tapes
• Optional 1.5 m silk organza, 140 cm wide
• 1 m woven interlining (Vlieseline G785)
• Sewing thread “Seralon” (Mettler)
• Metallic thread “Gold 7 No. 40” (Madeira)
• Overlocker thread (Mettler)

Cutting pattern

Download the pattern for the jacket here: Download pattern 

Tip: Working with silk organza is haute couture. If you want the work to go faster, you can just leave out the double facing. Alternatively, the jacket can also be worked with a lining.

Cutting out the dupioni silk and (optional) silk organza

• 2 x front piece
• 2 x facing
• 1 x back yoke on the fold
• 2 x back piece
• 1 x back facing on the fold
• 2 x sleeve
• 2 x sleeve facing
• Optional bias tape for binding, 3 cm wide

Seam allowance: We recommend allowing 1.5 cm for all seams and 4 cm at the hems.

Instructions

Iron the woven interlining onto all facings.  Baste the organza onto the silk and sew along the allowances.

Close the back center of the facing (collar and hem). Iron the allowances open and topstitch using metallic thread. Lay piece 2 onto piece 5, right side to right side, and close the shoulder seams. Sew the bottom collar edge of piece 2 onto the back neckline of the facing (piece 5).

Neaten all the seams on the overlocker. Use the 28 mm binder attachment for unfolded bias tapes and foot 95 and bind the seams with the bias binding (side seams, shoulder seams, back center seam, bottom sleeve seams, inside edges of the facing incl. sleeve facing).

Close the back center (collar seam) on the front piece.

Close the shoulder seams. Pin the darts together and steadily pin the undercollar onto the back neckline. Starting from the darts and moving outwards, close the darts and the collar seam. Iron the seam allowances toward the front center and topstitch using metallic thread.

Close the rear center seam. Iron the seam allowances open and edgestitch using metallic thread. Close the side seams.

Sew the yoke, right side to right side, onto the back piece. If necessary, bind the seam allowances and iron upwards. Edgestitch the yoke.

Sew the facing onto the jacket and the collar, then trim, turn, iron, and edgestitch the seam allowances in stages. Topstitch the collar and front again at a width of 3 cm.

Turn over the the facing on the sleeve hem. Close the sleeve seams. Sew in the sleeves. Bind the sleeve insertion seams with the binder attachment. Iron the seam allowances into the jacket and edgestitch. Topstitch the sleeve hem about 1/4″ from the edge.

Sew the jacket and the sleeve facing onto the organza.

Sew the snaps on by hand.

Done!

Have fun with your jacket and if you want to know more about BERNINA’s golden anniversary, have a look at our homepage: https://www.bernina.com/125years