Creative articles about sewing

A new skirt for my daughter (yes, I sew for other people ;-))

This month I’ve been sewing the skirt Tina from the December issue La Maison Victor for my (step-)daughter. When I saw the model I immediately knew that my daughter will love this skirt.

The fabric (made of a blend of viscose, polyester and elasthane) has been sponsored by La Maison Victor as a part of a collaboration with BERNINA. 

My daughter is petite, so I decided to go for the size 34. Mind you, the waistband ist elasticated so she will be comfy all the same. An added bonus are the side seam pockets (#ithaspockets)! 

First I copied the pattern on some flipchart paper (I prefer this to the standard tracing paper) with my trusted double wheel. The wheels are customizable depending on the preferred seam allowance. 

Next I cut out all the required pieces with some pattern weights and a rotary cutter. Please take note, that corduroy has a nap. This means that all your pattern pieces need to face in the same direction. Maybe you won’t notice a difference in your sewing room but in daylight you (and other people) will definitely notice that throughout your piece of clothing the color of the fabric seems changing. Ask me how I know… 

Right now in the middle of winter (and one of the coldest winters in the last 10 years) my daughter will be wearing this skirt with tights. This means I have to make sure the fabric won’t cling to her tights and the skirt inadvertently rides up. For this reason I added a lining by using the same pattern pieces as for the front and back but omitting the waistband portion. Also, I did not add a hem allowance because I want the lining a good amount shorter that the actual skirt. 

You won’t need to copy the whole back darts just mark the dart legs. We won’t be sewing those darts but just fold the fabric in this area. This will add ease around the hips. 

This skirt is a perfect beginner project because you may – just as I did – add poppers instead of regular buttons and buttonholes. I just like the look of the poppers with the corduroy. 

But first things first. After cutting out all the pattern pieces you beginn the assembly as illustrated in the magazine. 

After you’ve closed the side seams, however, you add the lining to the skirt right sides together and then flip it to the back. 

Sewing the darts. 

I have finished all the edges before the actual construction.

The finished skirt panels with added pockets.

The lining is added by attaching it to the waistband part (right sides together) and then flip it to the inside.

Fold down the waistband and add two rows of topstitching. 

Now it’s time to add the elastic. Both ends will be sewn in by turning the front closure part to the inside. 

As one of the last steps you add belt loops and your waist tie.

For inserting the poppers I first marked the required position with my trusted button gauge contraption. Of course the pattern pieces come with markings for your buttons, don’t worry, but I prefer this method. This gives me more flexibility. 

Press and voilà! Turned out perfectly and my daughter was very pleased with her new skirt. 

All that is left to say is “happy sewing” and see you soon. In the meantime you might like to see what I am up to, so check out my Instagram @heart.pleat 


Difficulty level: Beginner
Time to Complete: Evening
Used Material: corduroy, lining
Used Products:

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