Creative articles about sewing

Cute Button-up Top from a Free Pattern


This year, Easter is very close to my & my boyfriend’s anniversary, so I wanted to make something cute to wear for both occasions. The weather is also about to get cooler so this is likely my last opportunity to make something summery for awhile.

I had seen a few people on social media making the Elliot Top but felt it needed a few tweaks to better suit my style.
The Elliot Top is lovely but I wanted mine to be more comfortable to wear and provide more coverage.

Like most special occasions this past year, I’ll be celebrating with my boyfriend at home.
Dressing up and making things helps make these celebrations still feel festive during this difficult time.

What will be needed:

  • Sewing machine
  • Overlocker
  • Elliot Top Pattern
  • Elliot Top Pattern Hack Guide
  • Guide To Bias Binding & Elastic Quantities
  • 1m Fabric
  • Thread to match your fabric
  • 1cm wide Elastic
    (quantity dependent on your measurements, refer to Guide To Bias Binding & Elastic Quantities)
  • Optional: Bias Binding to match your fabric
    (quantity dependent on your measurements, refer to Guide To Bias Binding & Elastic Quantities)
  • Button-hole foot (I used #3A)
  • 1cm wide Buttons
    (quantity dependent on your preference, I recommend 2 -5)
  • Ruler, Tape, pattern paper & Paper Scissors
  • Safety Pin

Steps

Pattern

The pattern is downloadable for free but you have the option to pay any amount for it and support the designer.

If you need assistance with how to download the free pattern, follow the steps in this downloadable document: How to download the Elliot Top Pattern

Here is the pattern: Elliot Top Pattern
1cm seam & hem allowances are included in the pattern.

The pattern is currently only available in S, M & L. The size guide is on the designer’s website.
Please take note of the  length of the Bodice. The pattern is for a crop top but can be easily lengthened.

Pattern Hack

The Original Elliot Top with Ties & My Hacked Version with Buttons

I used Cool Stitches’ own pattern hack to help me create my Elliot Top Hack.
The designer hacked her pattern to create a full button-up top with a high neckline and loose silhouette (no underbust ties).
This is her video tutorial for that particular hack: How To Hack The Front Tie Top Pattern.

I wanted to create a top that was somewhere between her original Elliot Top and her hacked button-up version.

The steps below show how I did this.

I made them in to free downloadable documents so that this blog post isn’t too long and overwhelming with information. Just click on the document’s name to open it

                My Elliot Top Pattern Hack

I adjusted the shape of the Centre Front to include a button-stand and slightly altered the low neckline.

The steps can be found here: Elliot Top Pattern Hack Guide

                Bias Binding & Elastic Casing

The pattern does have pieces for making casings, you can use those as is, cut them on the bias or use premade bias binding.

Follow these steps to calculate how much bias binding you’ll need for the neckline and casings as well as how much elastic you’ll require.

The steps can be found here: Guide To Bias Binding & Elastic Quantities

Sewing

The pattern doesn’t come with any written instructions, instead the designer created a video tutorial:
Front Tie Top Tutorial

Watch her video or follow along with me to see step by step how I sewed up my Hacked Elliot Top.

Assemble

  1. Fold & press the Button-stand.
    Fold along the first fold line, 2cm from the edge.
    Fold again along the next fold line, 2cm from the folded edge.

  1. Stitch the Darts and press them towards the Hem.

  1. Join at the Shoulder seams with a 1cm seam allowance.
    Overlock the seam’s raw edges.
    Press the seams towards the Back.

  1. Gather the Sleeve Head between the notches.
    Stitch two rows on the longest stitch length.

  1. Attach the Sleeve to the Bodice with 1cm seam allowance.
    Overlock the seam’s raw edges.
    Remove the gathering stitches if they are visible.

  1. Press the seam towards the Shoulder seam.
    Steam the gathers to set them. Don’t flatten them with iron.

  1. Join the Side seams (including the Sleeve) with 1cm seam allowance.
    Overlock the seam’s raw edges.
    Press the seams towards the Back.

Binding

  1. Put the garment on and pin the Button-stands together.
    Work out where you want the two Casings to go and mark these out with pins.
    To ensure both sides are even, work out just on the one side and copy the markings to the other side once the garment is off.
    The lower casing should lie straight all around the torso while the upper casing should curve up from under the bust to the Button-stand.
    I would recommend copying these markings to your pattern so that your next Elliot Top is quicker to make.

  1. If you aren’t using Pre-folded Bias Binding, press the Casings/Binding so that it is folded along the top and bottom edges.

  1. Place the Casings along the areas you marked out.
    The Casings should finish at the first fold line of the Button-stand.

  1. Stitch the Casings in place just in from the fold lines.
    Open up the Button-stand to prevent accidentally stitching it.

  1. Use a safety pin to help feed the Elastic through the Casings.
    Try on the garment to check if you need to tighten the Elastic.

  1. Pin the Elastic in place at the Button-stand.
    Fold the Button-stand back in place, covering the end of the Casings and pin.

14. Sew the Button-stand in place. Stitch just in from the inner fold line.

  1. Finish the Neckline by attaching the Binding.
    Include the top of the Button-stand.

Finishing off

  1. Work out Button-hole placements.
    I recommend placing Button-holes where the Casings meet the Button-stand.
    Stitch the Buttonholes. I used the #3A Button-hole foot.

  1. Stitch on the Buttons & open the Button-holes.

  1. Overlock the raw edges of the Sleeve Hem.
    Fold the Hems up by 3.5cm and pin in place
    Stitch the Hem in place along the overlocked edge, leaving a 2cm gap open.
  2. Stitch another row, 1.5cm from the folded edge.
    Feed the Elastic through the channel in the Sleeve Hem.
    Try the top on to the check fit of the Sleeve and adjust the Elastic tightness if necessary.

  1. Stitch the ends of the elastic together & close the gap.

  1. Overlock the raw edge of the Hem, fold and sew in place.
    I think the pattern uses a 1cm Hem allowance but I made mine 1.5cm


Tips

  • I would suggest interfacing the Button-stand if you are using a particularly thin fabric.
  • If you are concerned about stitching button-holes on the elastic:
    -At step 10 end the casing just next to the Button-stand rather than inside it
    -At step 13, the Button-stand won’t cover the end of the Elastic or Casings so you will need to stitch the ends in place. I suggest zigzag stitching over the ends of the Casings to secure the Elastic and prevent the fabric from fraying.
  • You could turn the Elliot Top in to a really cute dress.
  • I made a little hair accessory from scraps using this free pattern:
    Small Tie Piece from my Scrap Busting Scrunchies for Easter!  tutorial.
  • For reference, I made a size small and lengthened the Bodice by 10cm.

I would love to see what you make, please feel free to share with me!
Remember to tag the pattern designer @coolstitches and use their hashtags #madewithcoolstitches #elliottop
Instagram
Facebook

-Hannah-Rose

Free sewing instructions: Cute Button-up Top

Difficulty level: Intermediate
Time to Complete: Weekend
Used Material: 100% Cotton Fabric, bias binding, buttons, elastic
Used Products:
BERNINA 535
BERNINA 535
BERNINA L 460
BERNINA L 460
Reverse pattern foot # 1
Reverse pattern foot # 1
Buttonhole foot with slide #3A
Buttonhole foot with slide #3A

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