La Maison Victor Ziggy top

How cute is this Ziggy top with folded sleeves, a.k.a. wings… oh wait it’s a girls top. What if I make it for my size anyway. Should be OK! Gettin’ Ziggy with it!

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Pattern Adjustment

I took the largest possible size (176) and with a few adjustments I made it a size ‘M’. For this I drew some extra centimetres on the side seam. Under the arm on each pattern piece 2 cm, graded to 3 cm at the height of the hip. From the original Ziggy top pattern I finally took 3 cm of the length. Both the neckline and the armscye are finished on the inside with bias tape of the same fabric. Don’t forget to extend the strips of fabric that you use to finish the armhole with a total of 4 cm. That’s how many centimetres have been added to the side seam at that spot.

Ziggy top Wings

The wings were made 3.5 cm wider than the pattern stated, I didn’t change the length. For sturdiness, you iron on interfacing on this rectangular piece of fabric. Then you can finish it in different ways. In the instruction of the Ziggy top two ways are optional. If your fabric does not fray, you can leave it as is (option 1) or finish it with a rolled hem (option 2). I wouldn’t go for the first option, because the facing can come of after washing. Especially if you use stretch fabric like me.

Before making this white version, I tested the pattern and wings first. I simply finished the wings with the bernette 64 AIRLOCK (option 3). Don’t forget to finish those loose threads. For instance by tucking them back into the stitching with a thicker needle. (I will share the end result of this test version on my Instagram later. I actually really liked it and will definitely finish and wear it).

bernette 64 AIRLOCK

The overlocker with an air threader to automatically thread the loopers. It‘s never been so easy to get started. The b64 AIRLOCK has even more to offer: the freearm makes it easy to sew sleeves and cuffs.

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Option 4

In the end for this white top I went with a fourth option, where you finish the seams by first sewing the fusible interfacing, turning it, then ironing and topstitching it. Did you get that?? Below I show the steps:

Cut the fabric and interfacing
Pin the interfacing with the adhesive side facing up on the right side of the fabric
Sew, leaving a turning hole and trim the seam narrow
Turn inside out, so the adhesive side ends up on the wrong side of the fabric
Carefully press out the corners
I use a chopstick for this
Iron on the interfacing. Make sure to fold the seam in at the turning hole
Topstitch narrowly on the side. I use blind seam foot 5

Box pleats

The cute wings of this Ziggy top are created by folding box pleats. Every two centimetres you make a fold and then you bring two folds together. Then you ….wait, I’ll show you….:

I put a pin every two centimetres (you can also use invisible marker, but I was reluctant because of the white)
Fold the pleats
Baste and iron
For sharp pleats I use a Tailor’s clapper
With a basting stitch at the sewing machine (stitchlength 6) you sew the wings on 1 cm from the edge
Sew the wings on top on the indicated line

Hemming time

Last step: the finishing of the hem. I finished the hem first with the overlocker and then with the twin needle on the regular sewing machine.

After overlocking the seam I ironed the hem at 2 cm. Pin it first on the inside and then on the outside for the best result.

Then it’s time for the twin needle. I use a twin needle for stretch fabrics, width 4 mm. I select this needle in the menu. Select a slightly longer stitch length and adjust the bobbin thread tension accordingly. I always test it first on a fabric sample.