For the month of August 2022 you can download the Sue Shirt Pattern from the Inspiration Magazine for free!
This top is a lovely take on the traditional tshirt and I thought it would be perfect to make with Spring just around the corner.
I love the lace detail and how you can create very different looks by using different types of lace (cotton, corded, eyelet etc.)
When it came to choosing which fabrics to use, the lace was the star. It is so feminine and light with little roses. The colour is just gorgeous too, especially paired with the coordinating fabrics, it is like a blush mauve.
What will be needed:
- Sue Shirt Pattern
- Sewing machine (B735)
- Overlocker (L460)
- Fabric: 0.8-1m lace with scalloped edge (120cm wide)
0.6m Jersey/knit (150cm wide)
0.4m Fine Cotton
- 1-4 spools to match
- Notions: 8 Buttons (I used 1.5cm Buttons)
- Buttonhole foot #3A
- Button Sew-On foot #18
Download the free pattern: www.bernina.com/inspiration-freebie
For help downloading refer to this blog post Free Sewing Pattern Shirt Sue refer to this blog post: Free sewing pattern for the Shirt “Sue” (August only)
Keep in mind that the Inspiration Magazine patterns are always without seam allowances.
I added 1cm seam allowances and a 1.5cm hem allowance to my pattern.
Inspiration Magazine recommends adding a 3cm seam allowance to the sleeve head (explanation below.)
Please note that the drawings are not to scale. They are for descriptive purposes only.
Cutting out Jersey/Knit fabric
Cut 1 of the Bottom Front on the Fold (bottom of pattern piece 1)
If you are making a size 42 or up, include the bust dart.
Cut 2 of the Bottom Back (bottom of pattern piece 2)
Cutting out Lace
Cut 1 of the Top Front on the Fold (top of pattern piece 1)
Cut 2 of the Top Back (top of pattern piece 2)
Cut 2 of the Sleeves (pattern piece 3)
The size of your pattern could affect the pattern run of the lace.
Inspiration Magazine recommends adding a 3cm seam allowance to the Sleeve Head. This is so that when attaching the Sleeve you can adjust it to make the scalloped Sleeve Hem level with the scalloped edge of the Front and Back lace pieces.
Place the edge of the pattern pieces a few centimetres above the scalloped edge.
Cutting out Cotton Fabric
These pieces are not included in the pattern.
Cut 2 Buttonstands each 60cm x 4.5cm (add your seam & hem allowances).
As I shortened my Bottom pattern pieces by 14cm, I needed to shorten the Buttonstand by the same amount.
Cut 2 sets Bias Strips for binding:
3.5cm x 0.5-0.6m
2.5cm x 1.2-1.3m (you may need cut this in 2 halves and join)
For help folding bias binding, refer to my video
Click “Watch on Youtube”, select 2:52 in the caption and the video will jump to the correct place.
Please note that I really struggled to find a jersey and woven fabric to match my lace as it is still Winter here and new fabrics haven’t arrived in my local stores.
I found a stretch Cotton Sateen which is lightweight to wear in warm weather. I used this in place of the Jersey (Bottom Front & Back pattern pieces) as well as for the Buttonstand. However I did interface the Buttonstand to stop it from stretching. I also used prefolded bias binding as the Cotton Sateen would have been too thick for DIY bias binding.
Instead of lace fabric I bought lace trim. I measured my pattern pieces (including seam allowances) and found that the lace needed to be a minimum of 25cm tall. The length of the trim was determined by the total width of the pattern pieces that required lace (Sleeves, Top Front & Back pattern pieces.)
1.If you are making a size 42 or up, close the bust darts.
2. Neaten the raw top edges of the Bottom Front and Back Jersey pieces with an Overlocker.
Be careful not to stretch the fabric as you sew.
3. Using the seam allowance you added, fold these edges towards the wrong-side of the fabric and press.
4. Place and pin the Top Front and Back Lace pieces on to the respective Bottom Front and Back Jersey pieces.
I placed the pattern piece beneath the lace to help with placement.
5. Topstitch to secure the Lace pieces to the Jersey pieces as well as the folded edge.
I chose to do a double row of stitching for extra security.
6. Close the shoulder seams. Be careful not to stretch the fabric as you sew.
7. Trim the seam allowances to 0.5cm.
For help attaching the bias binding, refer to the blog post Tips and tricks for working with lace
8. Bind the shoulder seams using the 2.5cm wide bias binding
9. Bind the neckline using the 3.5cm wide bias binding.
10. Press the bound seams.
11. Baste the Sleeves in, fit the garment and if necessary undo the basting to adjust the placement of the Sleeve.
The goal is to make the scalloped edge of the Sleeve level with the scalloped edge of the Front and Back lace pieces when worn. You may need to adjust the shape of the Sleeve.
Here is how my Sleeve pattern looked with the adjustments. I kept the 3cm seam allowance at the top of the Sleeve Head and gradually shaped the seam allowance towards the Sleeve Hem, removing about 2cm from the seam allowance. I achieved this by pinning, fitting and altering the shape until I achieved the goal.
12. Sew the Sleeves to the Bodice.
13. Trim the seam allowances to 0.5cm and bind the Armholes with the 2.5cm bias binding.
Stretch the binding to get around the curves.
14. Close the side seams.
15. Overlock the raw edge of the Hem, fold it up, press and secure with topstitching.
16. Attach the Buttonstands to the Back.
Fold the Buttonstands in half lengthwise and press.
Pin one side of each Buttonstand along the raw edge of each Back piece.
Secure with your chosen seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance towards the Buttonstand.
Fold the Buttonstand so that its right-sides are touching and pin the top and bottom edged in line with the top and bottom edges of the Bodice.
Sew along the top and bottom edges of the Buttonstand.Trim the seam allowance and cut off the corners.
Turn the Buttonstand right-side out, fold in the raw edge seam allowance (less 2mm) and press.
Turn the garment over and topstitch in the ditch, securing the folded edge on the other side.
17. Sew the Buttonholes & Buttons.
You’ll need to determine the size and placement.
An easy calculation is to measure the distance between where you want to place the top and bottom buttons. Then divide this measurement by the amount of buttons (less 1) you want to use. Ie. If you are going to use 5 Buttons, you’ll divide by 4 as that is the amount of spaces needed between the Buttons.
Here is a video sharing how to sew Buttonholes & attach Buttons.
Or you can embroider special decorative Buttonholes.
Check out my another blog post Create your own embroidered buttonholes to learn how.
- I sewed a size 36. I could have done with a size 34 but 36 is the smallest. However, I like the loose, boxy fit that a size up gave me.
The only adjustment was to the length. I shortened the pattern by 14cm as I prefer a crop top style. I may crop it a further 2cm.
- A cotton lace would create a lovely casual look while a corded or beaded lace would make for a more formal effect. An eyelash lace would fall somewhere in between.
Missed the free download?
You can purchase the pattern from Inspiration Magazine’s online shop