We have carefully collected exciting tips and tricks from various inspiration magazines and published them on the blog. This tip is taken from inspiration issue #66. If you want to read more helpful tutorials, you can find an overview here: “Tips and Tricks”. It’s worth checking back regularly or subscribing to the newsletter to make sure you can learn our experts’ tricks for your sewing work.
Sewing Thin Fabric ‒ Tips about sewing various Materials and Fabrics
Special attention must be paid when working with fine or fairly thin elastic fabrics. The beginning and end of the seam are frequent trouble spots, where, for instance, the fabric is more likely to be pulled down into the machine, or poor fabric feed in general can be a problem. If you take the right preventive steps, however, neither of these issues should arise.
First and foremost, the right needle should be used for the fabric in question. With thin wovens, for example, a new size 70 needle should always be used.
Sewing Thin Fabrics ‒ Using the Straight Stitch Plate
With fine fabrics you’re better off using the Straight- and CutWork Stitch Plate, since the smaller the hole in the stitch plate, the lower the danger of the fabric being pulled down into the machine. Modern sewing machines have a “Stitchplate security program”, so be sure to select the straight stitch plate where appropriate. The program would automatically block an attempt to switch to a wider stitch, thereby preventing needle breakage.
The Jeans Foot #8 or 8D is ideally used in combination with the straight stitch plate. The foot’s narrow opening adds stability to the fabric, virtually clamping it between the stitchplate and the presser foot. Generally speaking, the foot should lie entirely on the fabric when you begin sewing, but sometimes that’s simply not possible. Where this is the case, it helps to hold on firmly to the top and bobbin threads, thereby supporting the feed at the start, until the foot lies completely on the fabric. Be sure to sew slowly at the start! Afterwards, the feed should function perfectly. With very delicate fabrics, a remnant of water-soluble embroidery stabiliser can help with reinforcement – place it on and under the fabric edge. Later, simply rinse out, or tear away.
Adjust the presser-foot pressure
Don’t forget to adjust the presser-foot pressure when sewing thin fabrics, if necessary.
Avoid potential puckering of the seam by stretching the fabric in front of and behind the needle when sewing. Depending on the fabric, the feed may not work well. In this case, it usually helps to switch on the Dual Feed, if your machine has this function. Alternatively, use the Three-Sole Walking Foot with Seam Guide #50. Particularly with pattern repeats that are supposed to meet up, or very different materials that tend to shift against each other, this is also the proper choice.
Additional BERNINA tips for you
You may have noticed that we have already published a few blog posts with helpful tips. These tips are written for various BERNINA inspiration magazines.
Are you looking for a specific topic right now? You’ll find a lot of supporting content on this page. And if the topic you’re looking for isn’t listed yet, check back regularly for the latest tips.
If you have any other useful tricks, feel free to share them below in the comments. Let’s take your sewing experience to the next level!