Creative articles about sewing

Zip it Up! Part 5: Zips on parkas and jackets

Welcome to the Zip it Up! Series, where we share exciting tips and tricks from various inspiration magazines and publish them on the blog. The tip “Zips on parkas and jackets” is taken from inspiration issue 1/2023. If you want to read more helpful tutorials, you can find an overview here: “Tips and Tricks”. It’s worth checking back regularly or subscribing to the newsletter to make sure you can learn our experts’ tricks for your sewing work.

How to sew zips on parkas and jackets

If a separable zip is to be sewn to a coat or a jacket with a collar, the collar or the hood is sewn to the neckline first. After that, there are several possibilities how to proceed. Here are two simple & quick options that are also used in the fashion industry.

Coat “Delia” from Inspiration Magazine Issue 1/2023

Option 1

Please note: The darker color in each illustration shows the right side of the fabric, the lighter color shows the left side of the fabric.

The upper edges of the inner and outer collars are already sewn together right side on right side. Place the zip right side on right side on the front piece, leave a gap of approx. 2–4 mm at the top, depending on the thickness of the fabric/zip, and fold over the protruding end of the zip.

Place the inner collar and front facing right side on right side on top of each other, pulling the bottom edge of the facing outwards by approx. 0.5 cm and distribute the angled edges evenly.

Sew in the zip and turn it to the inside. Sew in the second side in the same way. In our example, iron over the allowance of the front edge so that the little teeth are almost hidden. Topstitch the collar and the front edge.

This is the finished view from the inside:

Option 2

Iron the seam allowances of the front edges of the front piece and the outer collar to the wrong side. Place the zip under the front edge and leave a gap of approx. 2–4 mm at the top to the collar fold, depending on the fabric/zip thickness. Fix it with pins there.

Sew in the zip from the top edge of the outer collar (collar fold) on the right side of the fabric (showing the inside).

Sew in the second side in the same way. Fold in the narrow edge of the inner collar, or of a hood, and the front edge of the facing so that the puller of the zip can easily pass  (shown in the last illustration without facing in the drawing). Topstitch the inner collar/facing either from the right in the zip seam or sew it to the zip tape by hand.

Additional BERNINA tips for you

You may have noticed that we have already published a few blog posts with helpful tips. These tips are written for various BERNINA inspiration magazines. Are you looking for a specific topic right now? You’ll find a lot of supporting content on this page. And if the topic you’re looking for isn’t listed yet, check back regularly for the latest tips.

Part 5 marks the last part of the Zip it Up! Series. We already have some more series ready for you. Which topic would you like to see first? Let me know in the comments!

  • All about pockets
  • Business casual: How to sew various elements for shirts & blouses
  • How to use certain BERNINA presser feet and accessories
  • Improve your skills: Tips and techniques to elevate your projects
  • Upcycling: Projects to repurpose already loved garments
  • A different topic? I’d love to see your comment

Free sewing instructions: Zips on parkas and jackets

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