Creative articles about sewing

Overlock & Coverstitch with your sewing machine (free Turtleneck pattern too)

The Monroe Turtleneck is a great transitional garment for the in-between weather (Spring or Autumn). If made in a heavier weight knit it could even be a Winter garment. 
It has a boxy shape with drop shoulders and 2 length sleeve options.  

This garment is so quick to sew up and would make a wonderful gift. The boxy shape lends itself well if you don’t have someone’s exact measurements and is great for a variety of body types. 
This could be an easy but thoughtful gift to sew up. 

What will be needed: 

Pattern 

Download the free Monroe Turtleneck Pattern from Tessuti Fabric.

Select the Print at Home/Copy Shop option. 

The size chart and necessary information is available on download page. 

For help downloading refer to this: How to download & print

You’ll need to download the Instructions, Sheet 1 & Sheet 2 (whether its A4, A0 or US letter is up to you and your available printer) 

Seam allowances are included in the pattern. 

This garment is pretty straightforward to sew up and the steps are available in the pattern’s instructions. So instead of repeating the instructions, I’m going to share some tips on how to create overlocked and coverstitched seams with your sewing machine 

No Overlocker, No Problem  

With foot #2 or #2A you can Overlock with your sewing machine!  

#2 is for 5.5mm stitch width machines and #2A is for 9mm stitch width machines. 

You can use this foot and one of the Overlock stitches to finish raw edges on woven fabric but you can also use it on knit fabrics as you would use an Overlocker.  
The main difference is that the edges won’t be trimmed before being sewn like they would on an Overlocker so ensure that the fabric is cut neatly. 

To determine which stitch is best and the necessary settings for your specific fabric, make use of your Bernina Creative Consultant. 

Look for the mannequin icon, depending on your model, it might be on Home page (house icon) or one of the buttons next to the screen. 

Use the question mark to help you determine what each of the fabric categories are.

I used a beautifully soft lightweight cable knit fabric. So I selected the Lightweight Knit category. Then I selected the Overcast  category. 

The machine will recommend what needle to use and foot to use. 

When I select OK, the machine automatically changes the settings. Ensure that you change the foot to the #2 or #2A foot.  

Test the stitch on a fabric off cut to see if you need to adjust the settings. If the stitched fabric stretches out/puckers too much you may need to lessen the Presser Foot pressure. 
On older models the pressure adjuster is a wheel on the side.
On newer models you can adjust the pressure on the screen. 

Widen the stitch.

Pin the pieces with right-sides together. 

Line up the raw edge of the fabric with the pin in the foot. 

Then sew, gently guiding the fabric but allowing the feed dogs to move the fabric back and forth.  
I prefer to still backstitch at the beginning and end. 

 

If you don’t have the Overlocker foot and your fabric doesn’t fray you could use stitch #11 or #18. They are Stretch Straight stitches.  

Use the Creative Consultant to help you select the best straight stitch for your project. 
You could also use these to reinforce your Overlocked seams. 

Coverstitch Hem With Your Sewing Machine 

Select stitch #14. 
This stitch doesn’t need a special foot so you can use foot #1. 

Test the stitch on a fabric off cut to see if you need to adjust the settings. If the stitched fabric stretches out/puckers too much you may need to lessen the Presser Foot pressure. You could use the same pressure as you did with the Overlocking stitch. 

Continue using a stretch or ballpoint needle with your knit fabric. 

Fold up the Hem Allowance and pin. 
It’s up to you if you’d prefer to sew right or wrong side up.
I prefer to sew right-side up as there is less chance of the light-weight fabric puckering.

However, if you sew wrong-side up you can align the needle (when it’s to the left) with the raw edge of the fabric.

Sew gently, guiding the fabric but allowing the feed dogs to move the fabric back and forth.  
I prefer to still backstitch at the beginning and end. 

This stitch is great for Sleeve Hems as it has a stretch and doesn’t restrict the fabric.



Tips 

  • If you regularly sew with knits, I recommend looking into getting an Overlocker. 
    While the overlocking stitches are great, an Overlocker stitches very quickly and trims the raw edges for a neat edge. They are also amazing for woven fabrics (especially with creating rolled hems) and very lightweight knits (less chance of the fabric being pulled into the feed dogs). 
  • Another way you could use stitch #14 is to join seams like commercial activewear. 
    Overlap the seam allowances of the fabric and stitch.  
    I would recommend using this on medium weight active-wear type fabric like Spandex, Lycra or even Scuba. Other fabrics may not hold up as well and pull apart at the seams. 
  • If your Coverstitch or Overlocking stitches didn’t catch the edges properly, you can trim down the raw edges for a neater finish. 
  • The Overlocking stitches can also be used to finish raw edges of Wovens.

 

I would love to see what you make, please feel free to share with me! 
If you make a Monroe Turtleneck also tag Tessuti Fabrics and use #monroeturtleneck 
Instagram 
Facebook 

-Hannah-Rose 

Free sewing instructions: Cozy Turtleneck

Difficulty level: Beginner
Time to Complete: Evening
Used Material: jersey fabric
Used Products:
BERNINA 735
BERNINA 735
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Reverse Pattern Foot #1
Overlock Foot #2
Overlock Foot #2

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