Sew along for the “Daisy” Skirt (free pattern in July)

For the month of July 2024 you can download the “Daisy” Skirt Pattern from the Inspiration Magazine for free!

Even though it is Winter, I love that I can still wear this skirt paired with warm tights and boots. This outfit would look great with a chunky jersey too!

I really love pockets so I’m super chuffed that the Daisy Skirt pattern includes pockets. I also love that I can create a lengthened slit by undoing some of the buttons.

What will be needed:

“Daisy” Skirt Pattern
Sewing machine (Bernina 735)
Optional: Overlocker (Bernina L460)
Button Sew-On Foot #18
Buttonhole foot #3A
Optional: Edgestitch Foot #10
1.3 – 1.8 m light to mid weight Fabric (at least 140 cm wide)
Thread to match
7 buttons, 12 mm

Pattern

Download the free pattern: Inspiration Magazine Freebies

For help downloading refer to this blog post: Free sewing pattern for the skirt “Daisy” (July 2024 only)

Keep in mind that the Inspiration Magazine patterns are always without seam allowances.
I added 1.5cm (green) as well as 1cm (red) seam allowances and a 1.2cm (yellow) hem allowance to my pattern.

Cut

2 x Front

4 x Pocket Bag

1 x Back on Fold

1 x Waistband on Fold

Sew

I veered slightly from the original instructions when attaching the Pockets, as I chose to sew them how I usually would.
I also made my pockets out of a different fabric (plain lightweight Cotton) and added a Facing (a 5.5cm wide strip in the Skirt fabric) to the inner Pocket Bag.

For a tutorial on the attaching the Facing, refer to steps 1-4 in this blog post: Secret to a hidden inseam pocket

Darts

Close the darts on the Back and press towards the Side Seams.

Pockets & Side Seams

Place a Pocket Bag piece on to the Side Seam with right sides together.
Match up the notches.

Secure the Pocket Bag to the garment with a 1.5cm seam allowance.
Sew the length of the Pocket. Finish the raw edge.

Press the Pocket Bag.
The Side Seam should be flat and only the Pocket Opening folded.

Top-stitch along the length of the Pocket.
Align the edge of the foot with the seam.

Repeat the above steps to attach the remaining 3 Pocket Pieces.

Pin the Front & Back Skirt pieces around the Pocket Bag and along the Side Seam.

Start at the top outer edge of the Pocket Bag and sew down and around the curve of the Bag.
Sew just past the stitching line and pivot to continue sewing the rest of the Side Seam.

Finish the raw the Side Seam & Pocket Bag.
You should be able to sew it all in one go by straightening the seam where the base of the Pocket meets the Side Seam.

Secure the top of the Side Seam by sewing between the Waist Seam & top notch of the Pocket Opening.
Secure the base of the Pocket Bag by sewing between the base notch of the Pocket Opening and the base of the Pocket Bag.

Repeat for the other Side.

Press the Pockets and seam allowances towards the front.

Select the Bartack stitch #24.

Sew a Bartack at the top and bottom of the Pocket Opening through all layers of fabric.
This will strengthen the base/start of the Side Seams and keep the Pockets in place.

Buttonstand

Fold & press the Button-stand.
Fold along the Fold Line and then again along the Front Edge.

Sew the Button-stand in place. Stitch just in from the inner fold line.

Stich just in from the folded edge.

Repeat for the other Buttonstand.

Waistband

Pin the Waistband to the top edge of the Skirt. Remember to pin the top of the Pocket Bag to the Front.
Match up the notches and extend the seam allowance past the Button stand.
Place it so that the right-side of the Waistband is on the right-side of the Skirt.

Join together with 1cm seam allowance.

Press the seam upwards.

Lengthen the stitches and sew along the other long edge of the Waistband with 0.8cm seam allowance.

Fold and press along the stitched line.

Return the stitches to the regular length.
Fold waistband in half with right-sides together and sew the short ends of the Waistband.

Trim the corners and turn the Waistband right-side out.

Secure by stitching in the ditch from the right-side. Use the Edgestitch Foot for best results.

Optional: Stitch around the edge of the Waistband.

Buttonholes & Buttons

Lay the Skirt flat with the front facing up.
I did my Buttons on the left and Buttonholes on the right. Traditionally, it should go the other way around.

Draw the Centre Front Line down the Buttonstands. This line is 1.5cm in from the edge of the Buttonstand.

Mark the Buttonhole placements:

The Buttonhole on the Waistband will go crosswise.
Mark the start of the Buttonhole just to the left of the Centre Front Line in the middle of the Waistband.

The Buttonholes on the Skirt will go lengthwise.
Mark the start of the first Buttonhole 1.5cm down from the Waist seam along the Centre Front Line.

To figure out the placement of the start of the remaining Buttonholes.:
width of your buttonhole+8cm.
Eg. 1.4cm+8cm =9.4cm

As you’ll see in the video below, the machine automatically makes the length of the Buttonholes 0.2cm longer than the width of the Button..
8cm is the recommended distance between the Buttonholes. You can amend this measurement if needs be.

Mark the Button placements:

The Button on the Waistband is placed the in the middle of the Waistband along the Centre Front Line.

To figure out the placement of the first Button on the Buttonstand:
(width of the button ÷ 2)+1.5cm
Eg. (1.2cm÷ 2)+1.5cm = 2.1cm
Measure down the Centre Front Line from the Waist seam using this measurement.

To figure out an accurate placement for the remaining Buttons:
(width of the button÷2)+8cm
Eg.(1.2cm÷2)+8cm = 8.6cm

Sew

Here is a video sharing how to sew Buttonholes & attach Buttons with your machine.

Hem

Increase the stitch length and sew along the raw edge of the Hem with a 0.6cm seam allowance
Do not back stitch at the beginning or end and try not to let the fabric gather.
These are temporary stitches and can be removed once the Hem is complete.

Fold up along the stitch line and press.

Fold up again by 0.6cm, encasing the raw edges and press.

Reduce the stitch length to normal and secure the Hem.

Tips

Recommended fabrics: light to mid weight fabrics like Cotton, Linen, Crepe, Rayon, Viscose.
Cottons and Linens are more stable/less drapey and would be easier to handle.
Drapier fabrics like Crepe, Rayon and Viscose usually move around more and can be challenging to sew neat Buttonstands.
If your choice of fabric is a bit bulky for the pockets, you can make them out of a lighter weight fabric.
I recommend adding an insert to keep them invisible. Refer to this blog post for reference: Secret to a hidden inseam pocket

I would love to see what you make, please feel free to share with me!
Remember to also tag Inspiration Magazine
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