3 Types of Garment Lining: Full, Partial and Underlining

Linings can make a huge difference in how a garment feels and looks.

Not to mention the fun that can be had pairing gorgeous fabrics into a perfect marriage…

Ah linings. Some sewists love ’em, others might hate ’em.

Linings occasionally get shoved into the ‘old school’ category. Poor linings.

But linings not only make clothes more comfortable (and luxurious) to wear, they can also add structure, help the garment last longer, and give your project a professional, polished finish. (Say yes to finesse).

If you haven’t already, I encourage you to give linings a go! Learning new sewing techniques will help you extend your repertoire and become a more accomplished maker.

But with several different types of linings out there, it’s hard to know where to start. It helps to know what each one does, and when to use it.

This isn’t a complete list of linings, but includes the main ones most often used by home sewists.

Let’s have a look at 3 different types of linings –full, partial and underlining– and see if one of them might be right for your next sewing project.

Full Linings

As the name suggests, a full lining covers the entire inside of your garment.

This type is often used in jackets, coats, and dresses when you want a streamlined interior finish.

Full linings are great for concealing seams and lending your project professional finish.

They also help garments slide easily over your body, preventing any uncomfortable bunching or sticking.

For full linings, lightweight and slippery fabrics like silk, satin, or rayon are great choices. These fabrics ensure your garment feels comfortable and moves naturally.

Tencel/Cupro Bemberg/ Modal fabrics all make for a luxuriously peachy-feeling lining (pictured here I used a Cupro lining for my Tessuti Richmond Coat).

Full linings are especially useful when you want to make the inside of your project look as beautiful as the outside (aka #prettyguts)!

Partial Linings

Partial linings are exactly what they sound like—they only cover part of the garment, such as the bust or the skirt area. If your fabric is semi-sheer, a partial lining can help out in areas where you require more modesty.

[Image Credit: Made By Rae]

This technique is often used in tailored jackets or skirts where you want to maintain some of the benefits of a lining, like added structure and comfort, but don’t need or want to line the entire piece.

A partial lining is beneficial for breathability in warmer climates.

[Image Credit: www.shirtsmockup.com]

A partial lining can be a good choice if you’re working with a thicker fabric and don’t want to add too much bulk.

It’s also quicker and easier to sew than a full lining while still offering some of the same benefits.

Underlining

Instead of covering the inside of your garment, underlining is sewn directly to your fabric pieces before assembly.

This will provide structure and support to flimsy fabrics.

But an underling won’t conceal a garment’s construction in the same way a full or partial lining will. 

[Image Credit: Forget-Me-Not Patterns]

Underlining is especially useful when working with delicate, lightweight or tricky fabrics like lace or chiffon.

[Image Credit: Closet Core Patterns]

Underling can help stabilise shifty or tricky fabrics which are prone to wrinkling.

Underling can also be used as a subtle way of adding warmth with minimal bulk.

Conclusion

Each method of lining has its particular advantages. Regardless of which one you choose to sew, linings can transform a a garment and take your sewing projects to the next level.

Happy sewing, Leanne xx

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