Crop Blouse from upcycled fabric

Every birthday I try take time to make myself something special.
This one was a milestone birthday as I entered a new decade so I wanted to make something that is especially me.

I had a beautiful scarf that I was gifted on a previous birthday and by turning it in to a unique garment I could wear it more often.

The free Blouse Pattern I found was the perfect silhouette to transform my scarf.

What will be needed: 

• Sewing machine 735 
• Optional: Edgestitch Foot #10 
• Front Tie Blouse Pattern
• Light to medium weight woven fabric: Chiffon, Viscose or Georgette
  The pattern recommends 1.5m
• 55cm of 1cm wide Elastic
• Optional: 1.5m Bias Binding
• Thread to match 

Pattern 

This pattern style is a crop blouse that ties in the front rather than a wrap top.
However, as the smallest size is a bit big for me, the top naturally crosses. I also lengthened the ties so that I could comfortably tie the wrap.

The pattern calls for a facing around the neckline but I prefer to use bias binding.

1cm seam allowance is included in the pattern.
I increased the seam allowance on every seam except for the Waist, Tie and Neckline.
I made the Sleeve Hem allowance 2.4cm (blue line) and the other seam allowance 1.6cm (red line)
This is so that I could do French Seams and have enough space to tread elastic in to the Sleeve Hem.

To create the shape of the Bishop Sleeve, the pattern designer suggests gathering the sleeve hem, attaching it to the elastic and encasing it in a similar way to an encased waistband.  I prefer a different method which requires a bigger hem allowance.

Assemble

I used French Seams to assemble my Blouse. Here is a tutorial: French Seams

1. Join the Front and Back Bodices at the Shoulder seams.
Press the seams towards the Back.

2. Attach the Bias Binding to the full Neckline using the Single Fold Method:
-Attach the binding along the Neckline on the right-side of the fabric.
  Stitch in the crease closest to the garments raw edge.
  Gently stretch the binding as you sew, especially around the corners.
-Turn the bias binding to the wrong-side of the garment and press along the stitched seam.
-Neatly stitch along the inner edge of the Binding

3. Attach the Sleeves to the Bodice:
-Gather the Sleeve Heads between the notches.
-Join the respective Sleeves to the Bodice.
  Remember to match up the notches and gather the fabric gently.
-Press the seam towards the Sleeve.

4. Join the respective side seams from Sleeve Hem to Bodice Hem.
Press the seams towards the Back.

5. Attach the Bodice to the Belt:
-Gather the Bodice at the Waist.
These pictures from a previous blog post show the next steps more clearly-With right sides together, pin the Belt to the Bodice.
  Remember to match up the notches and gather the fabric gently.
-Sew with a 1cm seam allowance along the width of the Bodice.
-Fold the Ties so that the right sides of the fabric are together and pin.
-Join from the stitching at the end of the Bodice along the full length of each Tie and include the short end of each Tie.
  Sew with a 1cm seam allowance.
-Turn the Ties right side out and press.
-Pin the opening closed.
  Fold up the seam allowance of the unstitched edge of the Waistband and pin it in place along the base of the Bodice.
-Stitch in the ditch to secure the Waistband.
  The Edge-stitch Foot is great for this. Just remember to select it from the on-screen menu of your sewing machine before using it.

6. Sew the Sleeve Hem:
-Sew a line of basting stitches 2.4cm from the Hem edge.
-Press the Hem edge towards the basting stitch line on the wrong-side of the fabric.
  Press the Hem up again. The basting stitch line will now be the Hem edge.
-Topstitch the Hem in place. Leave a 2cm opening.

7. Add the elastic:
-Feed the Elastic through the channel in the Sleeve Hem.
Try the top on to check the fit of the Sleeve Cuff and adjust the Elastic tightness if necessary.
-Stitch the ends of the elastic together.
-Topstitch the gap closed
-Remove the basting stitches.

I would love to see your Blouse, please feel free to share with me!
I’m sure Zelena of Unfettered Patterns would love to see too. Use #UP1029 or #unfetteredpatterns when posting on social media.

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-Hannah-Rose