Windbreaker Jacket SewingTutorial (Free pattern Sept. 2024 Only)

The Kaja Windbreaker Jacket is a nod to the past with an updated look with the unique double sleeve feature!

I just LOVE to sew jackets. Something about them is so satisfying.

When I was a teenager (a “few” years ago), windbreakers were very popular and they were extra awesome if they had colour blocking.

Now, windbreakers are back in fashion! The BERNINA Inspiration magazine Kaja Windbreaker is perfect because it is sewn as separate top and bottom pieces, with two sleeves to give it a unique, layered look. The possibilities are endless with different colour and trim options!

I took my new windbreaker jacket for a test drive on a windy day at the lake. We were taking out our dock at the end of the summer and getting the cottage ready for the autumn weather. You can check out the video here to see my “hacked” features of a hidden zip pouch pocket and a bottom drawcord hem.

Materials Needed:

Sewing Machine BERNINA 590

BERNINA 590

Computerized machine for Sewing, Quilting, and Embroidering ✓ Sew longer with the Jumbo bobbin ✓ Handle all kinds of material with ease ✓
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Sewing machine foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1D (Dual Feed)
Zipper Foot (optional)
Fabric: 2 different colours of shell fabric, 1.5 yards of each colour. The pattern suggests Tactel. I used a cotton/poly twill. You could also use ripstop nylon, or other outer shell fabrics. Here are some shops with international shipping that carry a variety of options:
Interfacing for collar (optional)
2 yards of coordinating trim 1″ or narrower (optional)
Coordinating thread for each fabric
1“ elastic for long sleeve hems
Wonder Tape (wash-away double-sided sewing tape) or pins
Sewing Chalk (test to be sure it will wipe or wash away)

Pattern:

Download the Windbreaker jacket “Kaja” free pattern during September 2024: www.bernina.com/inspiration-freebie

For help downloading, refer to this blog post: Free sewing pattern for the windbreaker “Kaja” (September 2024 only)

Keep in mind that the Inspiration Magazine patterns are always without seam allowances.

Missed the free download?

You can purchase the pattern from Inspiration Magazine’s online shop

Optional Materials:

Pattern Tracing

Projector
Tracing paper, pencil, scissors
Seam allowance rulers for pattern-making

Zip pocket (a hack I added to the pattern)

15” x 30” rectangular piece of fabric (same as main fabric or a lighter weight fabric like mesh or ripstop
non-separating zipper 15” long
Zipper facing piece of main fabric 2.5” x 15”
Interfacing for zipper facing (2.5” x 15”)

Bottom hem cinch (another pattern hack by me)

1.5 yds/metres of shock cord or drawstring
Cord lock sized to fit the cord of your choice
2 x 5mm grommets (or you can make buttonholes if you prefer)
Cord end (optional)

Preparing the Pattern:

I always use my projector with digital patterns. Because this pattern required seam allowances, I traced the pattern onto my favourite pattern tracing paper (Bienfang tracing paper on the roll, for those who are wondering).

I use this patternmaking ruler HERE, which comes in various seam allowance widths to easily add them to patterns.

I added ⅝” seam allowance and 1” hem allowances to my pattern, but you can add whichever you like. These are typically what I use for woven fabrics.

Sewing the Kaja Windbreaker Jacket:

Sew shoulder seams together. You can zigzag or serge the raw edges.

NOTE: For the zipper insertion, I followed the original pattern instructions. However, when I sew this jacket again, I think I will use a different method. If you would like detailed diagrams of an alternative method of zip insertion (which differs from the pattern instructions), check out this post on BERNINA zipper tips and tricks for parkas and jackets.

Sew along the top edge of the two collar pieces to sew them together.

Pin or clip the outer collar piece (the interfaced piece if you decided to use the optional interfacing) to the neckline of the jacket body, matching collar notches to the shoulder seams.

Sew the collar to the neckline, clip seam allowances and press.

Measure your zipper width. My zipper is one inch wide, and I need to use ¼” seam allowances on each side of the zipper, so that leaves ½” of zipper tape exposed for the neck closure. Therefore, when pressing the collar front and bodice center fronts, add ¼” to each ⅝” seam allowance, for a total of ¾” to press to the wrong side.

Press seam allowance to the wrong side of the bodice front. This is for inserting the zipper.

Serge or zigzag the raw edges of the center front seam allowances, then place the zip tape below the pressed edge and stitch into place. I used wash-away double-sided tape to keep the zipper in place. I continued to use the regular presser foot since the exposed zipper didn’t require getting closer to the zipper. However, you can definitely use the zipper foot for this application as well.

Attach the zipper by topstitching into place.

Completed zipper insertion.

Press in the bottom and side seam allowances of the inner collar. Flip the collar inwards and pin or clip the inner collar to the outer collar. Sewing around the sides and the top edges, topstitching the inner collar to the outer collar, stopping 2 cm away from the collar attachment seam.

Stitch in the ditch from the right side of the garment to attach the bottom of the inner collar to the garment.

Stitch in the Ditch. Align the center mark on the 1D foot (Dual Feed) with the collar seam line. Stitch along this line to attach the inner collar without visible stitches.

Front zipper pouch for Windbreaker Jacket (optional):

Take your zipper facing piece 2.5” by 15” and apply the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric, following the instructions by the manufacturer.

Mark in 1.5” from each end and 1” down from the top edge and draw a rectangle 1/2 wide by 12” in length.

Center the zipper facing onto the lower front of the bodice, along the top edge.

Stitch around the marked rectangle on the zipper facing.

Cut in the middle of the stitched rectangle, stopping about ⅓” inch from each end. Cut diagonally into each corner of the box, ensuring you do not cut through the stitching.

Center the zipper under the pressed opening using double-sided tape, and topstitch into place.

Use double-sided tape on the wrong side of the zipper facing to securely hold the zipper in place to stitch.

The zipper is held into place with double-sided tape and ready to attach by topstitching around the edges.

(Don’t worry if it isn’t perfect, this will be hidden under the flap.)

Attach the zipper pocket piece to each long edge of the zipper facing, using a ¼” seam allowance.

Sew the pocket side seams together, finishing with a zigzag or serger.

If you need further instructions with this, you may want to search for video tutorials about sewing an “Interior Zipper Pocket”. Please leave a note in the comments if you feel a full tutorial on this type of pocket would be helpful, and we could do a full post on that.

Finishing the Windbreaker Jacket:

Sew the side seams on the top and bottom bodice pieces, finishing the seam allowances with a zigzag stitch or serger.

Decorative Trim:

I wanted to use decorative trim to enhance the look of my windbreaker. Sew it onto the finishing strip for the top bodice piece if you wish to do the same.

Use 3.5 stitch length since this is not a construction seam. Adjust the needle position to follow along the edge of the trim.

Use the needle position adjustment feature of your BERNINA 590 and align the needle with the edge of your trim where you wish to stitch.

Sew the short sides together to form a circle.

Pin/clip the open edges of the trim piece right side onto the right side of the upper bodice. Place the lower bodice right side onto the right side on top of it and sew all layers together.

Attach the trim piece to the bottom of the top bodice piece.

Lay the lower bodice right sides together with the right side of the upper bodice. Stitch all layers together.

Sleeves:

Sew the side sleeves seams of both the long and the short sleeves.

Hem the short sleeves.

Pull short sleeves over long sleeves and baste.

I LOVE that my BERNINA 590 has a basting stitch!

Set sleeves into the bodice and sew them together. Finish the seam allowances together to neaten the finish. I used a serger but you could also zigzag.

Hem the long sleeves. Leave a 1” opening space to insert elastic.

Insert the elastic and stitch the elastic ends together.

Sew the sleeve hem openings closed.

Press the bottom hem allowance up. If you want to complete your jacket as per the pattern, just hem the bottom and you are finished!

If you want to get fancy and add a drawstring closure to the bottom of your jacket, go to the finishing details below.

Finishing Details (optional):

Reinforce the fabric with a small scrap of interfacing on either side of the side seam allowance.

Insert grommets into the hidden inside portion of the turned-up hem. You could choose to sew buttonholes here if you prefer that to using grommets.

Sew the bottom hem partially, leaving the section at the grommets unsewn. Insert shock cord or drawstring. Pull the cord through the openings and attach the cord lock. You can either knot the cords or add a cord end to secure them from pulling through the grommet openings.