BERNINA Corporate Blog -Neckband in non stretch fabrics: tutorial
In this tutorial I would like to show you how I prefer to finish the neckline of a garment in non-stretch fabric.
It is an easy and very neat way, a perfect alternative for working with a facing.
For neatly finishing a neckline, I always use my BERNINA 480 with the Three-Sole Walking Foot with Seam Guide #50.
Requirements
-pattern for non stretch fabrics (I’m using the Laure pattern for women and teams by Bel’Etoile)
-fabric
-sewing machine
-matching thread
Tutorial
1.Drafting and cutting your neckband
When the neckband is not included in the pattern, for example if you want to replace a facing with a neckband, you can easily draw it yourself.
To do this, measure the neckline of the front piece and back piece of your pattern.
Above I’m showing it on the half pattern pieces, if you measure on the full pattern pieces, you will need to divide the measurement by 2 since we are going to cut the neckband on the fabric fold.
For example: you’re neckline measures 26cm, then we’re going to draw a rectangle shaped pattern pieces 27cm long and 3cm high.
We’re adding 1cm seam allowance to the measured 26cm :-).
Always cut your neckband on the bias when working with non-stretch fabrics.
This gives a little bit of stretch to it and that way you can attach it much easier and neater.
Fold your fabric this way and cut your neckband on the fold:
2.Sewing the neckband
Fold neckband in half, right sides facing.
Pin, stitch and press seam.
Fold and press in half again, wrong sides facing.
This way you’ll get a tunnel.
3.Attaching the neckband to the neckline
Slide neckband over the neckline of your top.
The unfinished sides of the neckband align with the raw edge of the neckline.
Pin center front of neckband to center front of neckline and repeat for center back marks.
Continue by pinning in between the center marks.
Stitch neckband into place at 5mm from the edge.
Optionally, you can make small cuts in the seam allowance all around to make it easier to press and stitch the neckband inwards.
Fold neckband up, over the seam allowance.
We’re going to topstitch our neckband and stitch through the seam allowance at the same time.
Topstitch the neckband at 2mm from the edge.
The pin in the picture below marks where that is.
Stitch all the way around.
Your front and back neckband now look like this:
Front:
Back:
Now press the neckband to the inside of the neckline, it’s not visible at the outside of your top anymore.
The inside of your neckline now looks like this:
The outside of your neckline now looks like this:
Stitch the neckband all the way around at 2mm from the edge.
The pin in the picture marks where that is.
Your neckband is done, the pictures below show how it looks.
Outside of neckline:
Inside of neckline:
Happy sewing!
Isabel
0 Responses