BERNINA Corporate Blog -For the most part, my projects fall into one of two categories: I’m either making it because I want (or need) the item, or I’m making it because I’ve found some kind of fun technique (like reverse appliqué!) that I really want to try. Sometimes it’s a blend of the two!
Recently, I’ve found myself leaning more into the techniques, and this project is no exception. I’ve been enjoying exploring ways to incorporate appliqué into my projects, and in doing so I’ve also started exploring different types of appliqué. One that I haven’t done in quite some time is reverse appliqué, so this seemed like a perfect technique to explore a bit more thoroughly!
The reverse appliqué technique involves sewing two layers of fabric together – just as you would with a traditional appliqué – but unlike traditional appliqué, in this method we’re cutting away the main fabric layer to reveal a layer underneath, rather than adding the layer on top.
There are a lot of variations on this technique – Alabama Chanin is probably one of the most well known examples of reverse appliqué: Natalie Chanin’s extremely recognisable garments use the reverse appliqué technique combined with a hand running stitch in jersey fabric.
Image source: Alabama Chanin https://alabamachanin.com/
In quilting, this method can involve turning under the main fabric’s raw edge before stitching it down, but I quite liked the idea of using the raw edge for additional texture. That’s how I landed on denim!
I decided to make a little dumpling pouch using this technique. I find the shape of these pouches very handy for organisation – they can be small toiletries bags, pencil cases, or knitting notions bags. They’re easy to make in different sizes, and they only require one pattern piece! Since they’re pretty easy to make, they’re a great canvas for trying new techniques in a way that means I’ll end up with a useful object rather than a sample that ends up put away in a box somewhere.
This isn’t the first time I’ve made one as a way to experiment with a technique – my most recent one was my first attempt at Sashiko – a Japanese embroidery technique I wanted to learn. Soon, I suspect, I’ll have a little collection of them!
Materials
- Denim
- Reverse appliqué fabric (I used a colourful printed linen)
- Lining fabric (I used more of the linen)
- All Purpose sewing thread
- Scissors (more on this below!)
- Chalk pencil (or other fabric marking tool)
- Zipper
- Optional: Interfacing, if the reverse appliqué fabric is thin.
I used my BERNINA 570 QE (NEW)for this project, as well as the #36 Reverse Pattern Foot with clear sole, #26 Drop Shaped Embroidery Foot, and #4 Zipper foot.
Reverse Appliqué planning and setup
First, I cut three pieces using my dumpling bag pattern – one of denim, one for the appliqué layer, which will be revealed, and one for the lining. In the end, I chose a texture that looks a bit like smooth pebbles – these sort of interlocking, smooth shapes that nest together. I drew this out freehand on my denim with a Bohin chalk pencil. The chalk pencil is great because it’s easy to wash away but it sticks around without rubbing off too easily – depending on the fabric you choose, something like a Frixion pen might be a better choice.
I think something like this would work really well with text – perhaps I need a knitting notions pouch that says “Knit” in reverse appliqué as well!
While drawing, I thought about how large I wanted my shapes to be – something scaled down to fit the size of my pouch, but not so small that the details would get lost.
Stitching the Design
Once I was happy with the drawing, I layered the denim and the reverse appliqué fabric so that both sides were facing up, and basted the two together inside the seam allowance. I found in one of my first tests that if I didn’t baste the fabric, the underneath layer was more likely to shift around, so this helps to keep both layers firmly in place.
Next – the fun begins! I switched to my Drop-Shaped Embroidery Foot #26, dropped the feed dogs, and traced each pebble shape in stitching. This proved to be a very effective way to practice my free motion skills!
I started at the middle of my pattern piece – the bottom of the bag – and worked my way out towards the edges, tracing and backstitching each pebble.
It’s very hard to see the stitching lines from the top, but the reverse side shows the outlines of each pebble.
Trimming the Upper Fabric
This was the step I was most worried about, and was definitely the fiddliest. I needed to trim away the interior of each pebble, but make sure that the underneath layer didn’t get snipped in the process!
I would definitely suggest experimenting to find a method that works best for you. It will change very much depending on the types of fabric you’re using. My first idea was a small, sharp pair of embroidery scissors – but I found that my denim was a bit too dense.
I ended up pulling out every pair of scissors that I thought would be useful – duckbill, big shears, spring snips – the lot! After a bit of experimentation, I landed on the following:
The small pair are cuticle scissors but I find them so useful for thread snipping in tight spaces! As it turns out, they’re also perfect for the task of opening up a hole in the denim. They gave me enough control that I could avoid snipping through both layers.
The next pair are buttonhole scissors! Another unusual choice, but the duller tips prevent the lower fabric from getting caught up, and the long shank give me enough leverage and control to trim my denim.
Once the method was settled, I trimmed each pebble about ⅛” inside the stitching line. This is what that looks like:
There’s one more step before construction can begin though- I wanted to see those raw edges! I used a stiff bristle brush to rub over the surface of my piece in all directions, loosening up the raw edges. This gave me that lovely, fluffy, distressed denim texture.
I think if this were a larger item I’d probably throw it in the wash for this step. Since it was so small, I decided I couldn’t wait! Once the fluffing was done, I went around and trimmed some of the longer pieces that had been dislodged.
Constructing the Dumpling Bag
In comparison to the rest of the process, this part happens at warp speed! First, I switched to my zipper foot and stitched my zip to the curved edge of the bag. Next, I stitched the lining in place along that same seam.
I turned the bag right side out and topstitched to secure all the layers.
The final step is to close up those corners. I turned the bag wrong side out again, lined up the corners, and stitched them shut. I finished these with strips of bias binding, which provides a perfect bit of extra structure that helps the bag keep its shape, even without a lot in it.
Flip right side out again, and we’re done! I had so much fun with this project! I really enjoyed test driving a new fabric texture, and now I definitely want to experiment more with reverse appliqué. What do you think – what technique should we try out next?
As always, you can catch me on Instagram, TikTok, and YouTube to see what I’m currently sewing!
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