Women's Relaxed Collared Shirt

Recently I saw a top for sale and thought “I could make that!”.

This is a regular occurrence and is one of the reasons that I struggle to buy clothing.
Sometimes the me-made garment isn’t as cost effective as the store bought but the style is customized, the fit and fabric choice are better. And I feel proud when wearing the garment because I made it!

What will be needed:

Sewing machine (B735)
Button-hole foot #3A
Optional: Button Sew-On Foot #18
Optional: Edgestitch Foot #10
Shirt Pattern
1.5 m Lightweight Fabric like chambray, oxford, light poplin, viscose, double gauze, linen or lawn
70 x 110 cm fusible interfacing
Thread to match fabric
7 x 1cm Buttons

Pattern

A relaxed, loose fitting button-up shirt with short cut-on sleeves and a traditional shirt collar.
You can of course lengthen and taper the sleeves for cooler weather.

1cm seam allowance is included in the pattern.

I increased my seam allowances to 1.5cm (red) along the Side and Shoulder seams for Flat-felled seams.

I also added 1cm (blue) to the Front edge and increased the hem allowance to 1.2cm (pink).

Interface & Overlock

Iron the Woven Interfacing on the wrong-side of one of the Collar pieces (this will be the Top Collar) and one of the Stand pieces(this will be the Outer Collar-stand(.

Add a strip of Interfacing to the wrong-side of the Front between the notches and the edge.

Sew

Sew the Buttonstand
Lengthen the stitches and sew the length of the Front edges with 8mm seam allowance.
Do not back stitch at the beginning or end and try not to let the fabric gather.
These are temporary stitches and can be removed once the Hem is complete. Fold along the stitch line and press the raw edge towards the inside.
Fold and press the length of the Front edges between the notches.
Return to your usual stitch length and secure the Buttonstand.
Stitch about 2mm in from the first fold line.
Join the Shoulders
Stitch with right-sides together and 1.5cm seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance closest to the Back down to half.
Fold the longer seam allowance over the short seam allowance to the stitch line.
Fold them over to the Back, covering the raw edges and press.
Pin the folded seam in place. I prefer to pin from the right-side.
Secure the folded seam with top stitching.
I moved my needle 1 point to the right and lined up the seam with the edge of my foot.
Make the collar.
Place the Top (interfaced) & Bottom Collars with right-sides together
Pin the Collar along the narrow edges and longer outer edge.
Sew with 1cm seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowances at the corners.
Turn the Collar right-side out and press.
Attach the Collar to the Collar-stand
Lengthen the stitches and sew the lower edge of Inner Collar-stand (not interfaced) with 8mm seam allowance.
Fold along the stitch line and press the raw edge up towards the wrong-side of the fabric.
Place the Collar between Collar-stands with right-sides together and stitch the length of the Collar-stand with 1cm seam allowance.
Match up the notches
Match the interfaced Top Collar with the non-interfaced Inner Collar-stand.
Turn the Collar-stand right-side out and press
Attach to the Collar-stand to the Neckline.
Pin the Outer Collar-stand (interfaced) to the Back neckline and stitch with 1cm seam allowance.
Press the seam towards the inside of the Collar-stand.
Secure the Inner Collar-stand with pins.
Stitch in the ditch. Use the Edgestitch Foot for best results.
Sew the Side seams the same way as the Shoulder seams.Try on the Shirt to check if you’re happy with the length of the Shirt and Sleeves.
Hem the Sleeves
Lengthen the stitches and sew the length of the Sleeve edges with 6mm seam allowance.
Fold along the stitch line and press the raw edge up towards the outside if the garment.
Secure the fold.
Fold the Hem up by 3cm and press.
Fold the Hem up by 3cm again and press.
Sew a few stitches at the Shoulder & Side seams to keep the turn-up in place.
Hem the bottom of shirt.
Increase the stitch length and sew along the raw edge of the Hem with a 6mm seam allowance
Fold up along the stitch line and press.
Fold up again by 6mm, encasing the raw edges and press.
Reduce the stitch length to normal and secure the Hem.
Refer to the pattern for Button & Buttonhole placements.
Buttonholes on the right and Buttons on the left
Stitch a horizontal Buttonhole on the Collar-stand and vertical Buttonhole down the Buttonstand.

Tips

I shortened the Sleeves as well as the length of the Shirt and straightened the Hem.
A contrast Inner Collar-stand adds a fun personal touch.

I would love to see your Shirt, please feel free to share with me!
I’m sure Zelena of Unfettered Patterns would love to see too. Use #UP1019 or #unfetteredpatterns when posting on social media.

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-Hannah-Rose