Transformative cover up - Instructions for self drafted pattern

✨Happy holidays!✨

From December 1st to 24th, Bernina will be providing you with exciting articles including tutorials, freebies and ideas in the blog Advent Calendar to get you in the festive spirit.
This year the theme is “Create your Magic” inspired by the launch of the incredible BERNINA 990, a machine unlike any other!

Check back every day to see what is hiding behind each door of Bernina’s blog advent calendar.

In today’s post we’re making a transformative cover up for your festive functions.

What is so magical about this garment is that you can wear it multiple ways and it adds a touch of elegance to any outfit. It also creates minimal wastage of fabric!
This garment is relatively quick to make so there is plenty of time to whip one up in time for your holiday events.

Below are the instructions to draft your own simple pattern as well as a tutorial for how to sew up the garment.

What will be needed:

Sewing machine (B735)
Optional: Overlocker (L460)
Optional: Bias Binding
Quantity dependent on your pattern
Your Self-Drafted Pattern (refer below)
Lightweight Woven fabric such as Chiffon, Georgette, Charmeuse Satin
Quantity dependent on your pattern
A Thread to match (3 if using an Overlocker)
Measuring Tape & Ruler
A4 piece of paper
Paper & Fabric Scissors

Pattern for the cover up

Measurements

These are the 3 measurements needed:

Sleeve/Shoulder Length:
Hold your arm straight out and measure from the middle of your Neck Dent (the dip between your clavicles) across to where you want your Sleeve to end.
Please note that this measurement is limited by the width of your fabric. If your fabric is 150cm wide, the maximum length of your Sleeve/Shoulder is limited to 75cm (half the width of the fabric)
Front Length:
Measure from your High Shoulder Point (where your Neck & Shoulder meet) down the front of your body (following the curve of your Bust) to the desired length.
Back Length:
Measure from your High Shoulder Point, down the back of your body, to the desired length.

Seam allowance

The seam allowance depends on how you are going to finish the edges of the garment.

Bias Binding
No seam allowance

Double Folded Hem with Sewing Machine:
1.2cm seam allowance

Rolled Hem with an Overlocker:
6mm seam allowance

Draw the Pattern

Here are 3 different styles you can create with this tutorial:

A Ruana. The Front and Back measurements are similar and the opening is at the Front.

A Cape or Cloak. The Front is shorter than the Back and the opening is at the Front.

A Shawl Cape. The Front is shorter than the Back and the opening is at the Back.

In this tutorial I made a Shawl Cape but the steps are the same for all the styles.

You don’t have to draft a full scale pattern as the measurements will be marked directly on to the fabric.
However, I find it helpful to create a small scaled pattern to help me visualize ahead of time.
To get the scale right, I just divide my measurements by 10. (eg 45cm becomes 4.5cm)

The length of fabric you’ll need is: Front Length + Back Length + (2 x Seam Allowance)
eg. 40cm +100cm + (2 x 0.6cm) = 141.2cm

The width of the fabric is your Sleeve/Shoulder measurement + (2 x Seam Allowance)
eg. 100cm + (2 x 0.6cm) = 101.2cm

Draw a rectangle with these measurements.
Mark the Sleeve/Shoulder line where the Front & Back measurements meet.

Cut out the rectangle

Fold the rectangle in half along the length.

At the point where the Sleeve/Shoulder, Front & Back lines meet lines meet, draw half a circle with a radius of 8cm.

On the side where you want the opening (Front or Back) make a mark 20cm down the fold line.

Draw a line from the edge of the circle on the Sleeve/Shoulder line to this mark

Cut out the Neckline and along the fold line where you want the opening (Front or Back),

Optional: curve the corners

Open up the paper and fold the rectangle along the Sleeve/Shoulder line to reveal the shape of your garment.

Cut

Fold your fabric in half lengthwise and transfer your markings and measurements as per your pattern.

Optional: Shape the corners.

Cut out the opening and along the fold line.

Sew your cover up

Finish the edges of your garment with one of these techniques

Bias Binding

I finished just the Neckline with bias binding for a comfortable finish but you could bind the edge of the whole garment.

Pin the binding to the right-side of the fabric, along the edge.
Sew along the fold line. I made my own bias binding so I used a predetermined seam allowance instead of a fold line.

Fold the binding over, encasing the raw edge of the garment. Ensure that the raw edge of the binding is folded in too.
The binding must be a bit longer on the underside so that it will be caught when sewn.

Stitch in the ditch from the right-side to secure the length of the binding.
The Edgestitch Foot #10 is great for this step.

Double Folded Hem with Sewing Machine

Increase the stitch length and sew along the raw edge with a 0.6cm seam allowance.
No need to backstitch as these are temporary stitches that can be removed once the garment is finished.

Fold up along the stitch line and press towards the inside.

Fold up again by 0.6cm, encasing the raw edges and press.

Reduce the stitch length to normal and secure the Hem.

Rolled Hem with an Overlocker

These are the settings for a 3-thread Rolled Hem

Adjust the tension dials, bring the Stitch Finger Lever towards you and set the Stitch Length to 1.

Overlock with the right-side of the fabric facing up.

If you stretch the fabric slightly when guiding it under the overlocker foot you can create a wavy effect. This is most noticeable around curved edges.

Here are some ways you could wear the Shawl Cape/ cover up.

The back of the garment is pulled close to my body with the belt.

The back of the cover up is tied in a low knot. This would also work well with a brooch instead of a knot.

Worn like an elegant scarf with the front bunched up and the long ends flowing behind.

With the opening at the front, the long ends are fed under the arms and tied at the back. Again this would work well with a brooch instead of a knot.

The opening is at the front and the long ends are thrown over the shoulders to the back.

Tips to wear your cover up

You could use a brooch to secure the cover up in different ways.
You could add small Buttons & Buttonholes or Hooks & Eyes along the opening for additional ways to wear the garment.
You can adjust the measurements used for the Neck opening to make it wider and longer.

I hope you have a magical festive season🎄

I would love to see what you make, please feel free to share with me!
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-Hannah-Rose