Notch lapel collar: Sewing instructions for a professional result

Welcome to the Business Casual series! We will share exciting tips from various inspiration magazines about sewing concealed button plackets, a collar with stand, polo closure and more. Todays tip about “How to sew a lapel collar” is from inspiration issue 1-20.

If you want to read more helpful tutorials, you can find an overview here: “Tips and Tricks”. It’s worth checking back regularly or subscribing to the newsletter to not miss the tricks of our experts!

What is a lapel collar?

The lapel collar is a staple for coats, jackets and suits. The most common type is a notch lapel collar, which features a triangular indentation or notch where the lapel and collar meet. Using the example of this blazer, we will show you how to sew a notch lapel collar.

Blazer “Pia” with a notch lapel collar and shorts “Anne” from inspiration Magazine 1/20

Other types are the peak lapel collar with a pointed upward peak and the shawl lapel collar. The shawl lapel collar has a rounded edge and a continuous curve to the front closure. It is is mostly used on tuxedos, but you can sometimes see them on elegant coats or blazers like this one:

Coat “Camille” with a shawl lapel collar from inspiration Magazine 3/23

Preparations for a notch lapel collar

Please be aware that due to our chosen firm material and the intended softer drape, we decided not to use any stabiliser in the facing. For light or fraying fabrics, iron a small piece of stabiliser on the inside corners on the front part and the facing (see illustration below). In case you wish to fully stabilize your fabric or a achieve a stiffer drape, iron on Vlieseline G 700 (or the interlining of your choice).

Attach the collar to the neckline

Stitch the lower collar along the neckline of the coat up to the heart symbol, leaving the seam allowances open at the ends.

Clip the allowance in the inside corners up to the seam line, then sew the short edges from heart to cross. Iron the allowances apart.

Sew the upper collar to the neckline of the facing, repeating the same steps as described above. Our blazer only has a facing, no lining. If your blazer has a full lining, you would also attach the rest of the lining to the facing. An opening is left in the sleeve lining to later turn your jacket inside out.

Combining outer shell and facing

Sew the outer edges of the under and upper collar together from cross to cross, right side on right side together. Gather the excess length of the upper collar while sewing. Iron the allowances apart.

Cut back the allowances from the outer edges of the collars in layers and clip in the curves.

Sew the outer edges of the jacket and facings right sides together.

Clip the allowances along the curves and cut the corners back.

If the collar and the front edge are not to be topstitched at the outer edges, the allowances on the collar can be placed in the lower collar and topstitched as far as possible. This results in a better drape of the edges. The allowances on the upper lapel are placed in the coat and topstitched to about 5 cm above the dividing seam. 5 cm below the lapel fold, place the allowances in the facings and topstitch as well.

Turn the facing inwards (or your jacket with lining inside out, then close the opening in the sleeve lining). At the base of the collar, pin seam to seam. Sew the first seam (heart to heart) from the right in the seam shadow (stitch in the ditch). Topstitch the collar outer edge and the front edge as desired.

Tip for your blazer with a notch lapel collar

In order to sew the facing on the front part along the hem, the corner is sewn on the sewing line. The long edge of the facing is pulled slightly down to sew it on the hem of the jacket. See the inside and outside view in the following illustrations. (The right sides of the fabrics are of darker colour. The wrong sides are a lighter colour.)