BERNINA Corporate Blog -Have you spotted them already? These cool ruffle pouches are becoming increasingly popular in Spanish and Portuguese posts on Instagram. Often, they feature checkered or textured fabrics, and neon colors are also trending. We’re bringing a bit of southern flair home because today, I’ve brought you a tutorial for such a ruffle clutch – in two sizes, no less. Whether as a clutch or a crossbody bag, this ruffle pouch is sure to make you stand out.
Good Vibes – Let’s Sew a Ruffle Pouch
I’m Stephi from the label *Frollein Tausendschön*. On my Instagram and associated YouTube channel, everything revolves around sewing, embroidery, and crafting. Today, we’re switching to party mode and sewing a trendy ruffle pouch. I’ve brought you two sizes right away: a clutch with a 25 cm width and another with a 20 cm width.
Sewing a Ruffle Pouch – Just One Pattern Piece
For the ruffle pouch, most parts are cut with a ruler and rotary cutter or scissors. Only for the curved edges have I created a pattern piece, which you can download at the very end of this post.
Cotton or canvas fabrics are suitable as the outer material. According to current trends, checkered and textured fabrics are popular. For my ruffle pouches, I’m using checkered seersucker and waffle piqué, both of which create a great look, in my opinion. For the lining, you can choose woven fabrics or lighter canvas. Today, I’m sewing the ruffle pouches on my BERNINA 770 QE PLUS and using the Reverse Pattern Foot with Clear Sole #34. I create the ruffle edge easily with the Ruffler #86, but you can also gather the fabric strip traditionally.
Materials
- Outer fabric (cotton, e.g., seersucker or waffle piqué)
- Lining fabric (woven fabric)
- Volume fleece H630
- Fusible interfacing G700 or H200
- Standard zipper: 25 cm long (large version) / 20 cm long (small version)
- Labels and embellishments as desired
- Matching sewing thread
- Optional: 1 or 2 D-rings and carabiners, matching strap, and possibly an adjustable slider for the desired carrying option
Cutting
Cutting for the ruffle pouch is done with a quilting ruler and rotary cutter or scissors. For the rounded bottom edges, you can print the paper pattern piece (that you can download at the end of this post) and easily mark the curves.
- 2x outer fabric: W x H 28 cm x 20 cm (large) / 23 cm x 17 cm (small)
- 2x lining fabric: W x H 28 cm x 20 cm (large) / 23 cm x 17 cm (small)
- 2x volume fleece: W x H 26 cm x 18 cm (large) / 21 cm x 15 cm (small)
- 2x fusible interfacing G700 / H200: W x H 28 cm x 20 cm (large) / 23 cm x 17 cm (small)
- Ruffle from outer fabric: W x H 12 cm x 1.4 m (large) / 10 cm x 1.2 m (small)
- Strap or cord (each side): 8 cm length
Sewing the Ruffle Pouch – The Tutorial
General Information Before Sewing
Unless otherwise specified, the seam allowance is 1 cm. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam. Adjust the stitch length according to your chosen material. For my cotton fabrics, I sew with a stitch length of 3 and increase it to 3.5 for topstitching.
Sewing the Ruffle Pouch – Preparations
First, iron the volume fleece onto the back of the outer fabric pieces. Follow the instructions provided by your fleece manufacturer. Important when applying volume fleece: press down with the iron or press only in specific spots and avoid any ironing motion (as this would flatten the fleece). Iron the thin interfacing onto the lining fabric pieces. The long strips for the ruffles do not need any reinforcement.
Marking the Curves
First, print the paper pattern piece for the curves which you can download at the end of this post. Ensure the pattern is printed at 100% size without scaling. If you want to work entirely paperless, you can mark the curves using a suitable round object. An espresso cup or round sewing weights work perfectly here. Draw the curves at the bottom edges of the outer and lining fabric pieces, then cut the corners accordingly.
Designing the Outer Pieces
Next, mark the bottom center of the outer pieces with a small notch. Fold each fabric piece with the short edges aligned. At the resulting fold along the bottom edge, make a small cut within the seam allowance (less than 1 cm).
Now, you have the opportunity to decorate the outer pieces as you wish. Whether with labels, iron-on designs, or embroidery – let your creativity flow! I used my embroidery module and special-effect foil to create iron-on patches, decorating the front of my ruffle pouch with them.
Sewing the Ruffle Pouch – Let’s Begin
Now, let’s get started sewing the ruffle pouch.
First, mark 2 cm from the top edge on both sides of the front and back outer pieces.
Attaching the Ruffle
Let’s start with the ruffle. Cut it according to the cutting list. Then, iron the fabric strip along the long edges, folding it wrong sides together so that the right side of the fabric is visible on both sides and the strip lies in a fold at the bottom. Now, finish the open long edge with a zig-zag stitch or on an overlocker. I’m using my BERNINA L 850 to secure the edge.
To gather the fabric strip, you have several options. I use a Ruffler #86 which makes the process quick and even. The ruffle settings vary depending on the fabric used, so you may need to experiment a bit. My seersucker and waffle piqué fabrics worked well with a stitch length of 3 and the selection lever on “6” on the ruffler.
Ruffle for the Pouch with the Ruffler or by Hand
Alternatively, you can manually gather the fabric strip. To do this, sew two rows of stitches with a stitch length of 6, spaced 0.5 cm apart along the top edge of the fabric strip. Backstitch at the start of the seam but not at the end. Pull the threads long and cut them manually (do not use a thread cutter). By pulling the two bobbin threads, you can gather the fabric strip to the desired length. Be sure to distribute the gathers evenly.
Then, pin the ruffle strip to the edge of the outer back piece. The finished edge lies along the edge of the back piece, and the ruffle faces inward.
If the ruffle strip extends beyond the top edge, trim it now to align with the top edge.
Remove some of the top clips and fold the fabric at the short edges of the ruffle strip first 1 cm inward and then another 1 cm (fold-over technique). Sew the short edges with a seam allowance of 0.5 cm. This gives the short edges of the ruffle strip a clean finish.
The folded short top edges should now reach precisely to the previously marked 2 cm point. Pin the ruffle securely again and stitch it in place within the seam allowance on the back piece.
Sewing the Ruffle Pouch – Attaching the Zipper
Next is the zipper. I like to use double-sided sewing tape here for support, so everything stays perfectly in place, and the zipper can be sewn in easily. Apply a strip of Wonder Tape to both top edges of the outer fabric. Be sure to position the tape slightly away from the planned seam line, as sewing through the tape will quickly gum up your needle.
Peel off the backing paper from the tape and place the zipper right sides together with the outer fabric back piece (the zipper teeth and the right side of the fabric should face each other).
I chose a standard zipper here. The advantage of this is that the zipper is not caught in the side seams, resulting in a cleaner finish. Of course, you can also make the ruffle pouch with a continuous zipper – in that case, simply attach it along the entire length of the top edge and include it in the side seams when sewing them together.
If you are using a standard zipper, you will need to fold the ends sideways. Secure them with a fabric clip.
Next, place a lining piece right sides together on the outer fabric layer. The zipper will be sandwiched between the outer fabric and the lining fabric.
The ruffle should face inward toward the center of the fabric.
Sew the seam with a 1 cm seam allowance; I recommend using a zipper foot for this step. Then, fold the fabric pieces wrong sides together and press the edge. Be careful: do not let the iron touch the zipper teeth to avoid damaging them. Finally, topstitch the edge from the right side of the fabric through all layers, stitching close to the edge.
Attaching Strap Holders
If you want to use your ruffle pouch as a crossbody bag or with a wrist strap, now is the time to attach the holders to the outer front piece. You have various options, such as small pieces of strap with D-rings threaded through or loops made from paracord. Get creative and choose a fastening method that works best for you.
Position your holders at the previously marked 2 cm points and secure them within the seam allowance. Sew back and forth a few times to ensure the attachments can later support the weight of the bag.
Now it’s time to sew the second side of the zipper. If you like, you can use Wonder Tape again on the top edge of the front outer piece.
Peel off the backing paper and place the free side of the zipper tape right sides together with the front outer piece.
Again, fold the ends of a standard zipper sideways and secure them with clips.
Next, place the second lining piece on the zipper tape, aligning the fabrics right sides together again, with the zipper sandwiched in between. Sew the seam with a 1 cm seam allowance. Then fold the fabrics wrong sides together and press the edge before topstitching it close to the edge.
Assembling the Ruffle Pouch
Final stretch – now we assemble the ruffle pouch. Place the outer bag and the inner bag right sides together, ensuring the zipper is about three-quarters open. The ruffle and strap holders for carrying are positioned toward the center of the bag.
Pin the ruffle pouch all around with clips. Pay special attention to align the transitions at the zipper.
Sew the seam with a 1 cm seam allowance, leaving an approximately 10 cm opening at the bottom of the lining. Trim the seam allowance on the lining piece by about half, except at the opening, where you should leave it at its full width.
Turn the ruffle pouch right side out through the opening and shape everything neatly with a corner and edge former.
Fold the seam allowance of the opening inward and close it with a narrow edge stitch on the sewing machine.
Carrying Options for the Ruffle Pouch
Done! Your ruffle pouch is finished and just waiting for a suitable carrying option. For the small bag, I made a classic crossbody strap with two carabiners and an adjustable buckle.
For the large ruffle pouch, I added a wrist strap. I simply secured an O-ring to a 50 cm long strap.
Now I wish you lots of fun sewing, and here is the pattern for the rounded corners available for download:
download_ruffle_clutch (pdf A4)
Yours,
Stephi
Great information on using the ruffler foot. I did not know to finish the edges first and I always doubt my settings. Super cute bag. Thanks for the great tutorial.
Thank you Katherine, I‘m super happy that you like the Tutorial 🫶🏻