DIY to Professional: Seam Finishes

I am a fashion designer by profession and make bespoke evening-wear for weddings, dances and other special occasions.
There are many techniques I use that can be transferred to creating everyday-wear.

Over the next 3 blog posts I’ll share some easy sewing techniques that will lift the quality of your clothing creations.
In terms of tools, these techniques will only require your sewing machine, regular Reverse Pattern Foot #1 , a Buttonhole Foot (#3, #3A or #3B) and Zipper Foot # 4

Fabric Choice

Before we dive into the techniques, I just want to mention that fabric choice plays a big role in the quality of the garment.
Sometimes it is best to spend a bit more to get a natural fabric like Cotton on Linen. They are easier to handle when cutting and sewing, they are more durable and have a quality look.

If your fabric looks and feels cheap, it doesn’t matter how beautifully made the garment is, it will look cheap.

Cottons and Linens come in many blend varieties which means they have a wide price range so you don’t have to empty your bank account.
For example, Pure Linen at my local fabric store is at least R200 per metre. But Ramie Linen, which is just as beautiful and durable, is R75 per metre.
Of course there are Polyester Cotton blends (Polycotton) that can look and feel like decent quality.

When thinking of these fabrics, don’t box yourself in to the idea of plain, organic colours. There are some amazingly vibrant colours and prints available and a variety of different weights/drapes.

When choosing your fabric, this is what I recommend considering:

How does it look & feel.
Regardless of the type of fabric, does it look and feel good.
Will I like wearing this?
Natural fabrics (or blends with natural fabrics) are usually more comfortable to wear. Synthetic fabrics, like Polyester, are more likely to make you sweat. Also think about the texture of the fabric, is it scratchy? Natural fabric will soften with wear and washes.
Is this print/colour kitsch?
Unless you are going for a quirky look, think about how the print/colour will work with the style of garment you are going to make.
Even if your fabric choice is amazing, the print or colour could bring it down.
Can I manage sewing this?
If the fabric is slipper, flimsy or very sheer, it may be challenging to sew if you haven’t got experience with it.
I’m not saying you should never try using challenging fabrics, but I wouldn’t recommend tackling a new garment and using a new fabric. Rather work your way up with practicing.
Fabric like most Satins, Rayon, Viscose, Voile etc are not as forgiving and will show every imperfection.
Is it easy to care for?
Consider if the fabric needs special attention and how it will effect how much wear you will get out of the finished garment.

Mock-ups

Here you can see how much of a difference altering the mock up made for my bodice.

If you are trying a new pattern, I highly recommend making a Mock-up.
This is a test version of the garment that can be made in a cheap fabric (as long as it is a similar weight and feel as your special fabric).
It will help you see where to make adjustments to the pattern for a great fit but also give you a chance to practice making the garment.
Make notes as you go about things to remember or what to change. See the mock-up as a test run so that when you make the garment in the special fabric it is less daunting and you’re more likely to have a good looking and fitting garment.

If possible, ask someone to help you with a fitting. Pinning while wearing the garment can be very challenging.

Care

Lastly, caring for the fabric is so important to extend the life of the garment and keep it looking top quality.
Always wash the fabric before cutting and sewing it. Natural fabrics (and most others) will shrink once washed and wat a waste it would be to shrink your beautifully made garment.

If you are unsure of how to wash and care for the fabric, do some research first. You could also cut a sample square from the fabric and test wash it.

For the garments I make for myself, I always wash the fabric how I intend to wash the finished garment.

For the seam & hem finishes in this tutorial, you’ll need a sewing machine (mine is the Bernina 735) and the Reverse Pattern Foot #1

French Seams

This is a sneaky and quicker way to sew French seams.
Usually French seams are a bit narrower than with this version but involve trimming away the seam allowance which can be tedious and messy.
I would recommend testing this technique on some scrap fabric to see if it will work with your fabric. This version of French seam may cause some fabrics (the type to fray easily) to be messed up by the feed dogs. Slightly studier fabrics like tulles, mesh and some thin cottons may work well with this technique.

I recommend a seam allowance of 1.6cm

Pin the seams so that the wrong-sides are together.

Stitch with a 6mm seam allowance.
(I wouldn’t recommend using a smaller seam allowance as the fabric may be pulled into the feed dogs)
Here’s a tip:
Measure the distance between the needle and the outer edge of the foot.
Move the needle over until the distance is 6mm.
Line up the edge of the fabric with the edge of the foot and sew.

Turn the garment wrong-side out and fold along the seam you just sewed.
The fabric will encase the raw edges of the seam.
Press along the fold.

Sew with a 1cm seam allowance.
Remember to move the needle to its neutral position and use the guide on the stitch plate.

Press the seams.

Narrow Rolled Hem

I recommend a hem allowance of 1.2cm

Increase the stitch length and sew along the raw edge of the Hem with a 0.6cm seam allowance.
You can use the same tip:
Measure the distance between the needle and the outer edge of the foot. Move the needle over until the distance is 6mm.
Line up the edge of the fabric with the edge of the foot and sew.

Fold up along the stitch line and press

Fold up again by 0.6cm, encasing the raw edges and press.

Reduce the stitch length to normal and move the needle over once more to the right.

Sew the Hem.

Pattern

The pattern I’m using is a self drafted cupped, structured bodice with a half circle skirt.
Here are some free/pay what you can patterns if you would like to make something similar:
(For some you could leave of the sleeves or just add a circle skirt)

Follow along for more tutorials to elevate your sewing in my DIY to Professional Series:
–DIY to Professional: Closures
-DIY to Professional: Bias Bound Necklines & Armholes

If you use any of my tips, please feel free to share with me!

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-Hannah-Rose