DIY to Professional: Bias Bound Necklines & Armholes

There are many ways to finish a neckline and armholes.

Fully lining is a very neat way to finish the inside of bodice. All it means is that you duplicate the Bodice and join it at the Neck and Armholes.
However this isn’t always the easiest and may cause a bulky bodice depending on the fabric thickness.

Bias Binding is a very neat and easy alternative to finish Necklines and Armholes

This techniques require a sewing machine (mine is the Bernina 735) and the Reverse Pattern Foot #1

Types of Bias Tape

Bias Tape is usually available pre-folded. The raw ends are heat set folded towards the centre of the Bias Tape. This pre-folded Bias Tape is often referred to as Single Fold Bias Tape. This name refers to the technique in which it is attached (see more in the tutorial below)

The size of the Bias Tape refers to the width of the pre-folded Single Fold Bias Tape.
If purchasing Bias Tape that is not pre-folded, you’ll need to divide the width by 4 to calculate the width it will be when made in to Single Fold Bias Tape (refer to this tutorial to see how heat set the Bias Tape)

The only different between Single Fold & Double Fold Bias Tape is that Double Fold is just Single Fold folded over again.
The name Double Fold refers to the technique in which it is attached (see more in the tutorial below).
At most of my local fabric shops, I can only buy Single Fold Bias Tape. I prefer purchasing Single Fold Bias Tape as it is more versatile: it can be used for both Single Fold & Double Fold techniques.

DIY Bias Tape

How to Attach Bias Binding

Single Fold/Fully Bound

The seam allowance should be the width of the Bias Binding fold.

In these steps, I have already sewn the Shoulder & Side seams of the Bodice and added the Zip closure.

Armhole

Pin the Bias Tape to the Armhole on the right-side of the fabric
Line up the raw edge of the Tape with the raw edge of the Armhole.
Fold the end in by 1cm and match the fold to the Side seam join.

Gently ease the binding as you sew around the corners. It’s ok for the raw edge of the Tape to wrinkle,
Extend the end of the Bias tape so that it matches the raw edge of the beginning of the Tape.

Stitch in the crease closest to the garments raw edge.

Snip the fabric where it curves. Do not cut through or past the stitches.

Turn the bias binding to the wrong-side of the garment and press along the stitched seam.
Fold along the pre-folded line of the Bias Tape, encasing the raw edge of the seam and press.

Fold along the stitched line, encasing the raw edge of the Bias Tape and press.

Neatly stitch along the edge, securing the Binding on the underside.

Neckline

Pin the Bias Tape to the Neckline on the right-side of the fabric
Line up the raw edge of the Tape with the raw edge of the Neckline
Fold the Bias Tape over the end of the Neckline by 1cm at the beginning and end of the Neckline.

Gently ease the binding around the corners. It’s ok for the raw edge of the Tape to wrinkle

Stitch in the crease closest to the garments raw edge.

Snip the fabric where it curves. Do not cut through or past the stitches.

Turn the bias binding to the wrong-side of the garment and press along the stitched line.

Fold along the pre-folded line of the Bias Tape, encasing the raw edge of the seam and press.

Fold along the stitched line, encasing the raw edge of the Bias Tape and press.

Neatly stitch along the edge, securing the Binding on the underside.

Double Fold/Half Bound

This technique does not need seam allowances as the binding will go over the raw edge.

This technique makes the Bias Binding a feature, rather than just a way to neatly finish the raw edges of the garment.
Unless you want a contrast detail, the binding needs to be an exact match to the fabric.

Here is a reference for using this technique: Finishing Neckline with Double Fold Bias Binding

Another way to use this Double Fold Technique is to neatly finish the raw edges of the seam with a Zip or a Waistband.

Pattern

The pattern I’m using is a self drafted cupped, structured bodice with a half circle skirt.
Here are some free/pay what you can patterns if you would like to make something similar:
(For some you could leave of the sleeves or just add a circle skirt)

Follow along for more tutorials to elevate your sewing in my DIY to Professional Series:
-DIY to Professional: Seam Finishes
-DIY to Professional: Closures

If you use any of my tips, please feel free to share with me!

Instagram
Facebook

-Hannah-Rose