DIY to Professional: Closures

Depending on your available tools and comfort level, there are a variety of closures you can use in your garment.

Zips

Invisible Zip

With Zipper Foot #4

I only just recently got the Invisible Zipper foot #35 but for many years prior was still able to attach Invisible Zips in my bespoke evening dresses using the Zipper Foot #4.
The Invisible Zipper Foot #35 does make attaching Invisible Zips quicker, easier and very neat so if you are going to be using this type of zip a lot, I do recommend looking in to purchasing this special foot.

I recommend a 1.5cm seam allowance for an Invisible Zip. You’ll need a sewing machine (mine is the Bernina 735), an Invisible Zip and Zipper Foot #4. Tweezers would also be helpful.
I attached the zip before finishing the raw edge of the seam allowance as I planned to bind it and wanted the edge of the zip tape to be included.

Sew the seam, where you are attaching the Zipper, from the notch to the end.

Lengthen the stitches.

Sew from the beginning of the seam to the notch. No need to backstitch as these stitches are temporary. Leave thread tails for later.

Press the seam open.

Open the Invisible Zipper and place it on your ironing board.
Using your iron (not too hot of a setting), press the coiled Zipper Teeth open by pressing them away from the Zipper Tape.

Once cooled, close the Zipper and place it right side down on the seam (the part stitched with the long stitches.)
Place the top of the Zipper Tape just over the seam allowance (we’ll add a Hook & Eye later to fill this space.)
Line the centre of the Zipper up with the centre of the seam.
Pin in place.
Make a mark on the Zipper where the notch is.

Select the Zipper Foot #4 from the machine’s on screen menu.

Move the needle over to the right.
Optional, if like me you are still going to finish the raw edge of the seam, you can lengthen the stitches to remove later. Otherwise use a regular stitch length.

Line up the left side of the foot with the Zip Teeth and ensure that the needle catches the Zip Tape on the right, adjust the needle placement if necessary.
Sew the edge of the Tape to the seam allowance. Stitch about 1.5cm past the notch.

Remove the temporary stitches of the seam. As there is no backstitch, you should be able to pull the stitches out by gently tugging on a thread tail.

Open the Zipper and pull the Zipper Tab past the notch. You may need some tweezers to help with this step.
Alternatively, tie some thread to the pull tab and feed it through the opening at the base of the zip then pull on it.

Move the needle over as far as possible to the left. Make the stitch length regular.

Starting at the top, stitch as close as possible to the Zipper Teeth to secure the Zipper.
Finish stitching about 3 stitches past the notch (remember to backstitch.)
For the other side of the Zipper, start stitching about 3 stitches before the notch (in line with other side.)

Once done, grab the pull tap and close the zip. Once again you may need tweezers.

Turn the garment over and press the seam.

With Invisible Zipper foot #35

If you have Invisible Zipper foot #35: I would recommend pressing the 1.5cm seam allowance and then lining up the zip teeth with the folded seam line.

Channeled Zip

1.5cm seam allowance is what I recommend for a Channeled Zip. You’ll need Dress Zip and Zipper Foot #4

Lapped Zip

For a Lapped Zip, 2cm seam allowance is best. You’ll need Dress Zip and Zipper Foot #4

How to shorten a Zip

It is often difficult to find the exact length zip in the specific colour you need but there is an easy and neat way to shorten the zip.

Once you have attached the zip to the garment:

Make a mark on the Zipper where the last stitches are and make another mark minimum 5cm below that (7cm if the raw seam edge is already finished).

Cut along the mark.

Mark 2cm down from the first mark.

Cut out the Zipper Teeth..

Carefully use a lighter to seal the cut edges of the Tape.

Fold the Tape Strips up towards the Zipper at an angle to create a triangular shape.

Secure along the seam allowance edge.
Finish the raw edges of the seam allowance or fold the ends of the Strips to behind the seam allowance and trim away excess.

Hook & Eye

I like to include these closures as I find them helpful when getting dressed. When putting on the garment, do them up first then you’ll have both hands free to do up the zip.

I prefer hand stitching Hooks & Eyes over machine stitching so that they are invisible from the outside.
The trick is to stitch them to the inside of the garment and not stitch through all the layers, just to the lining/facing/bias tape.

These techniques requires a Hook & Eye pair, hand sewing needle and thread to match your garment.

Working from the inside of the garment, determine the placement of the Hook.
Usually the Hook is placed on the left side, inside the garment and the Eye on the right side, inside the garment

The Hook & Eye will be attached to the lining/facing/bias binding so only stitch to that layer. Place the Hook & Eye so that they align with the edge of the fabric. They should not be visible from the outside when the garment is worn.

Thread the needle and knot the ends together. Trim the tails of the knot.

Hook

Catch a tiny bit of the fabric with the needle, thread the needle through the fabric and then through the thread.
Pull tight to anchor the thread.

Place the Hook over the knot and hold in place (or use a piece of tape).
Anchor the Hook in place by stitching around the head 2 times.

Once done, insert the needle at an angle so that it comes out through the middle of one of the rings.

Secure the rings in place using Blanket Stitch:

Insert the needle just outside the ring and bring it up through the middle.
Thread the needle through the loop created by the thread.
Pull the thread tight.
Continue stitching around the ring, creating the stitches next to each other.

Once the ring is stitched, insert the needle at an angle so that it comes out through the middle of the other ring.
Repeat the blanket stitch steps.
Once done, tie a knot around the last stitch, thread the needle through the fabric and cut the thread as close to the fabric as possible.

Eye

Catch a tiny bit of the fabric with the needle, thread the needle through the fabric and then through the thread. Pull tight to anchor the thread.
Place the Eye over the knot and hold in place (or use a piece of tape).
Anchor the Eye in place by stitching around the base 2 times.
Insert the needle through the middle of one ring and have it come out the middle of the other ring.

Secure the rings in place using Blanket Stitch just like you did the Hook.

Buttons & Buttonholes

You’ll need a sewing machine (mine is the Bernina 735), a Buttonhole Foot (#3, #3A or #3B) and optionally the Button Sew-on Foot

Pattern

The pattern I’m using is a self drafted cupped, structured bodice with a half circle skirt.
Here are some free/pay what you can patterns if you would like to make something similar:
(For some you could leave of the sleeves or just add a circle skirt)

Follow along for more tutorials to elevate your sewing in my DIY to Professional Series:
-DIY to Professional: Seam Finishes
-DIY to Professional: Bias Bound Necklines & Armholes

If you use any of my tips, please feel free to share with me!

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-Hannah-Rose