BERNINA Corporate Blog -Finding good patterns to sew for men is often difficult, so I was excited to see the BERNINA Inspiration Magazine Timo Men’s Jacket pattern. The collar and shoulder details add interest to the pattern and give it a style that will work for both business and casual, depending on which type of woven fabric you choose.
I made this version with a lightweight suiting fabric because I liked the pattern the weave gave. I plan to make future versions in midweight denim and cotton twill.
Materials Needed:
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- Sewing Machine BERNINA 590
- Sewing Machine Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1D (for use with Dual Feed)
- Button Sew-On Foot #18 OR a snap-setting tool if you are planning to use snaps instead of button closures as I did
- Buttonhole Foot with Slide Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3A
- Sewing Machine Needle to suit your fabric
- Fabric: 2 yards of linen, twill, denim or other light jacket fabric. Here are some shops with international shipping that carry a variety of options:
- Interfacing (I used woven SF101, you can also use G 700 Vlieseline)
- Coordinating Thread
- 10 Buttons or Snaps
Men’s Timo Jacket Pattern:
Download the Jacket “Timo” Model 123-30, the free pattern during April 2025: www.bernina.com/inspiration-freebie
For help downloading, refer to this blog post: *add link here= Free sewing pattern for the Jacket “Timo” (April 2025 only)
Keep in mind that the Inspiration Magazine patterns are always without seam allowances.
Missed the free download?
You can purchase the pattern from Inspiration Magazine’s online shop
Preparing to sew the Men’s Timo Jacket
Cutting the Fabric
Open the PDF pattern and make sure that the “Original Size” is selected. You can then select your paper size and print out and tape your pages together.
I used a projector so that I didn’t have to print and tape pages together. First, I projected the pattern pieces onto kraft paper and then drew on the seam allowances and cut them out of the paper. I added 3/8″ seam allowance as that is my preference but you can use whatever size you wish. If you anticipate the need to make fitting adjustments I suggest using 5/8″ – 1″.
You can use A0 files with a projector to trace and/or cut out your pattern directly.
Tip! For easy pattern marking, cut out holes in the paper pattern for the corners for pocket markings. Use chalk and mark through the holes onto the fabric.
Cut holes in your pattern and use chalk to mark the pocket placement.
Next, cut out your fabric for all of the shirt pieces. Please note that no pattern pieces are provided for the pockets. Cut out two chest pocket pieces. I used 14 cm wide x 16 cm tall (5.5” x 6.5”). Add seam allowances and a hem allowance along the top edge of the pocket.
Cutting and Applying the Interfacing
Cut the interfacing for the button plackets, one collar part, two flaps and two shoulder straps; press the interfacing to all areas, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
Sewing the Men’s Timo Jacket
Sewing the Pockets
Press the top hem down on the pockets and press in seam allowances on the remaining sides.
Increase stitch length for topstitching. I use a 3.0 stitch length. Topstitch the hem along the top edge.
Next, topstitch the pockets to the shirt fronts, using the pattern markings.
Topstitch pockets to attach them to shirt front.
Stitch the shoulder pieces and pocket flaps with the wrong sides together. After that, turn right side out, press and topstitch each of the pieces.
Topstitch the pocket flaps.
Finish the edges of the pocket flaps with a zig-zag. Press the stitched edge to one side and topstitch the pocket flaps to the shirt above the pocket.
Sewing the Men’s Timo Jacket Yoke
Pin one yoke part onto the right side along the upper edge of the back pattern piece, with the second right side onto the wrong side. Sew on the yokes and clip the allowances along the curves.
Next, press the yokes upwards and increase the stitch length and topstitch. Add a second row of topstitching if desired.
Back yoke sewn and topstitched.
Press.
Stitch the outer yoke piece to the front shoulder on each side.
You can use the burrito method to finish the inside yoke seam by stitching the right side of the inside yoke to the wrong side of the shirt front. This creates a clean finish at the shoulder.
Here is a tutorial with more details on the burrito method. BERNINA tutorial for a burrito method yoke.
Topstitch the shoulder seams.
Sewing the Shoulder Straps and Placket
Baste the shoulder straps centred on the top shoulder seam.
Attach shoulder strap to top shoulder seam.
Sew the button plackets right side onto the right side along the center front. Press the allowance towards the placket.
Press the allowance of the other long edge and pin it over the inside of the placket seam. Topstitch the placket from the right, ending about 10 cm in front of the bottom hem line.
Finishing the Men’s Timo Jacket
Stitch the side seam allowances closed. Finish the seam edge with a zig-zag. Alternatively, you can use BERNINA Lap Seam Foot #71 with a flat felled seam finish.
Sew the top edge and sides of the collar, wrong sides together. Turn and press.
Sew the outer collar with the right side onto the right side of the jacket. Pin the inner collar with the allowances folded in and topstitch it all around.
Finally, finish the shirt by sewing buttonholes and buttons onto the front plackets. Alternatively, you can install snaps with a snap tool that works with your specific snaps.
Happy stitching!
Heather @ManitoulinThreads🧵✂
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