Sewalong: Closet Core Kalle Shirt Dress Part 4 - Collar and Cuffs

Welcome to part 4! If you missed the previous instalments then you can find them here: Sewalong: Kalle Shirt Dress by Closet Core Patterns Part 1, Sewalong: Kalle Shirt Dress by Closet Core Patterns Part 2, Sewalong: Kalle Shirt Dress by Closet Core Patterns Part 3.

For my version of the Kalle Shirt Dress I chose to sew the two piece collar, but there is also the option for the band collar.

I didn’t manage to take photos at every step unfortunately since I was immersed in the making process, sorry! So I have borrowed some images (the green dress) from the Closet Core website to best illustrate the steps for you.

The method for the two piece collar sewn here is unconventional, but beginner friendly. So if you have a preferred method then feel free to go ahead and do what works for you.

Normally you would assemble the collar and stand fully and then sew the entire thing to the shirt neckline. Instead, we are going to pin the top collar stand along the neckline.

Make sure your neckline is staystitched at this stage just inside the seam allowance to prevent the neckline from stretching out.

Pin the interfaced collar stand (G) to neckline, matching notches. First notch on the collar piece aligns with centre front shirt, or centred on button band.

[Image Credit: Closet Core Patterns]

Clip neckline seam along curves. Ensure ends of collar stand extend past neckline opening by 5/8″ (16mm).

[Image Credit: Closet Core Patterns]

Sew stand to neckline.

Press stand and seam allowance up.

[Image Credit: Closet Core Patterns]

Pin under collar to top collar, RST, aligning notches. Stitch around short sides and top edge. Trim corners and grade seam as necessary. Turn inside out and topstitch 1/4″ (6mm) from edge.

[Image credit: Closet Core Patterns]

Pin collar to stand, with interfaced side of collar facing up. Match notches and sew.

[Image credit: Closet Core Patterns]

Right sides together, lay the non-interfaced stand on top of collar, matching notches and sandwiching collar in between collar stands.

Fold the collar stand seam allowance under where it matches up with neckline seam.

[Image credit: Closet Core Patterns]

Stitch along the outside edge of the collar stand, securing everything together. The stitch line along either end should be even with the shirt edge without catching it in the stitching.

Grade and clip seam allowance, but leave at least 3/8″ (10mm) seam allowance along each end of the collar stand. This will make it easier to tuck out of the way in the next step.

Turn collar stand down. Press the collar stand seam allowance under 5/8″ (16mm). Slip stitch or glue baste in place.

Finish by top stitching 1/8″ (3mm) around perimeter of stand to secure.

You could sew your buttons and button holes now but the instructions direct us to complete the sleeve cuffs next, so I’ll do a separate (and final) sewalong post for the buttons.

With RST, align front and back cuffs together along angled seam and sew. Sew together at straight, short edge as well.

Carefully snip seam allowances into the V of the angled seam. Press seams open.

[Image Credit: Closet Core Patterns]

Press cuff in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Matching notches and seams, pin cuff to arm opening. Sew all the way around. Grade seam.

Press cuff and seam allowance away from shirt. Press raw edge of cuff under along 5/8″ (16mm) seam allowance and pin into placer, ensuring it neatly encloses cuff seam.