DIY Decorative Stitch Tape

I recently made a Chanel Inspired Jacket.

One of the key characteristics of the iconic garment is the decorative trim that outlines the Jacket’s shape.
The trim is either a contrast or same tone as the jacket.

I chose to make my own trim using decorative stiches and a contrast Cotton Tape.

What will be needed:

Sewing machine (B735)
Twill Tape
Thread to contrast Tape/match the Garment
A Garment

I found it easiest and neatest to stitch the Tape to my Garment before lining it.
You can of course still use the technique on a ready-made garment. I would recommend using a bobbin thread that matches the inside of your garment to make the stitches of the underside less noticeable.

I chose a 5mm wide Cotton Tape that contrasted my garment. This is the perfect width for the decorative stitch to fully stitch edge to edge.

If you are using a wide Tape, you could use the Open Embroidery Foot #20.
As my Tape is narrow, I preferred to use the regular Reverse Pattern Foot #1.
Using a thread that matches my Garment made the Tape look intentional and cohesive.

Choose the Stich

Choose a decorative stitch.

If necessary, adjust the length and width of the stitch using the knobs.

Attach the Tape

Open-ended

For example, stitching along the edge of the Sleeve.

I ironed the Hemline so that I had a guideline to follow by lining up the edge of the foot with the fold line.
You could use a fabric marker to mark where you would like to add the Tape.

Line up the middle of the Tape with the middle of the Foot.

Gently guide the Tape with one hand and the Fabric with the other while the machine stitches.
The Feed Dogs will move the Fabric and Tape forwards and backwards as it stitches, do not fight the direction or hold the Tape to tightly.

To prevent the stitches from unraveling, pull the top threads to the underside and knot the thread tails.

Press the Tape.

Closed Loop

For example, stitching around the edge of closed Armhole or around the Neckline, Centre Front and Hem of a jacket

I used the Seam Gauge on the machine’s Stitch-plate as a guideline.
You could use a fabric marker to mark where you would like to add the Tape.

Start somewhere like a Side Seam or Centre Back of the Neckline.
Fold the end of the Tape under by about 1cm.
Line up the middle of the Tape with the middle of the Foot.

When you approach a corner:
-It may help if you switch to a regular straight stitch
-Keep the Needle down and lift the Foot,
-Flip and rotate the Tape at an angle that matches the corner (it will create a neat little fold at the corner.)
-Lower the foot and stitch to the middle of the Tape,
-Keep the Needle down and lift the Foot,
-Rotate the Fabric and lower the Foot,
-Return to your decorative stitch,
-Continue stitching.

As you are coming close to the end:
-Measure out how much Tape will still be needed plus about 1cm and cut off the excess.
-Fold the end of the Tape under by about 1cm.
-Stitch the remainder of the Tape.