How to line a jacket like Coco Chanel

As previously mentioned, I am a fashion designer by profession and make bespoke evening-wear for weddings, dances and other special occasions.

Recently a client asked me to create something to wear with the strapless evening dress I was making for her.
It is Autumn at the moment and she wanted something to provide a bit of warmth.
So I made her a cropped, collarless jacket in the same fabric as the dress. I love how the little jacket added a classic touch and that she can wear it with many different outfits.

The inspiration for the shape of jacket came from the iconic Chanel jacket. I loved the jacket so much that I decided to make one for myself with more Chanel features.

What will be needed:

Sewing machine (B735)
A Jacket pattern (see below for freebies)
Jacket fabric (quantity dependent on pattern)
Lining fabric (quantity same as above)
Thread to match fabric
Narrow chain the length of the Hem
Hand sewing needle
Some paper to draft a Lining

There are many styles of Jacket Linings and different ways to attach them.
The techniques I use in this blog post are one of the simplest and are inspired by the original Coco Chanel Jackets which did not have any Facings in the Lining (different from traditional Jackets.)

Pattern

The pattern I’m using is a self drafted cropped, collarless jacket without a button stand.
Here is a free pattern if you would like to make something similar:

Tweed Jacket from Unfettered Patterns

Alternatively you could use a notched collar jacket pattern and omit the collar like these free patterns:

Drafting the Lining

Fold up along the Hem Fold Line of the Bodice Front, Bodice Back and Sleeve pattern pieces

Trace off the top and sides of the pattern pieces.
Using pins or a tracing wheel, mark along the Hem seam line (dotted line in picture).

Remove the original pattern pieces and on the new pattern pieces draw the along the dotted line.

Add the seam allowance below what was the dotted line.

Write the relevant information on the pattern pieces and cut them out.

Attaching the Lining

Neckline

Assemble the Lining by joining the Bodice Front, Bodice Back and Sleeves the same as the Shell. (Refer to your pattern’s instructions.)

Fold up and press the Hem on the Shell Bodice.

With both the Lining and Shell inside-out, pin them together along the Neckline.

Sew the Neckline along the seam allowance.

Snip in to the seam allowance at the curves. Do not cut through the stitches.

Press the seam towards the Lining.

Understitch the Neckline.
Sew a few millimeters in from the seam, securing the seam allowance to the Lining.
I like to use the Edgestitch Foot #10 and move the needle all the way to the side.

Pin the Lining and Shell together along the Centre Front.
Place a pin to mark the Hem seam allowance of the Lining.

Sew the Centre Front along the seam allowance.
Don’t sew past the pin at the Hem seam allowance.

Press the seam towards the Lining.

Understitch the Centre Front, securing the seam allowance to the Lining.
Starting from the base of the sewn seam (where you had marked with a pin) sew towards the top and try stitch as close as possible to the corner.

Sleeves

With the Lining and Shell inside out, fold up and press the Shell Sleeve Hems.

Slide the Lining Sleeve over the Shell Sleeve.
Match up the seams, ensure that the Sleeves aren’t twisted and pin together.

Join together along the seam allowance.

Turn the Jacket right-side out, check that the Sleeves are correct and press the seam allowance of the Sleeve towards the Lining.

Hem

Turn the Jacket inside out.

Pin the Lining and Shell together along the Hem with right-sides together.
Leave a medium gap mid back to pull the jacket through later.

At the corners, pin back the seam allowance of the Lining (from the Centre Front seam).
There will be excess fabric behind, if needs be, pin it up and out of the way for now.

Join with your seam allowance.
When you sew the beginning or end of the seam, ensure that you don’t catch the excess fabric below.

At the Centre Front, fold along the pre-pressed Hem line and flip the seam allowance towards the Lining.
Place a pin in line with the stitches.
Sew the remainder of the Centre Front along the seam allowance from the pin to the Hem line.

Turn the Jacket right-side out by pulling it through the opening in the Hem.

Press the seam allowance of the Hem towards the Lining.

Hand stitch the gap closed.

Chain

One of the features of an original Chanel Jacket is a chain attached to the Hem.
This helps the Jacket hang straight on your body, which is especially important with lightweight jackets to counteract the weight of buttons and trims.
The colour of the chain matches the buttons or fabric colour of the Jacket.

Pin the chain along the Hem where the Shell joins the Lining.
Ensure that the chain lies flat and does not twist.

Hand stitch the chain using a thread that best matches the colour of the Chain.
Use whatever style and length stitch is easiest for you as long as the chain is secure and doesn’t hang past the Hem.
I tried to catch the top of every 4th or so link.
Don’t cut the length of the chain until it is fully stitched and please use pliers, not your scissors.