Top Tips for Professional Topstitching

Neat and professional-looking topstitching makes a big difference in the final look of a garment–it highlights design features and style lines, really giving a #memade that ‘wow’-effect. 

Denim projects are the perfect opportunity to fine tune your topstitching skills.

Key points for beautiful topstitching:

Needle:

Use a topstitching needle instead of a jeans needle. The topstitching needle has a larger eye, which helps thicker thread move through the machine more easily, reducing issues like thread fraying or breaking. 

[Imgae credit: Superior Threads]

Thread:

Gutermann Topstitching, Extra Strong or Denim Threads are all good choices. They feed well through home machines and give a bold, clean look. 

(In the bobbin, stick with regular all-purpose thread to avoid tension issues.)

Topstitching Thread:

Extra Strong Thread:

Denim Thread:

Sewing Two Lines of Topstitching:

For a perfectly even first stitch line, switch out your regular presser foot for an edgestitch foot. An edgestitch foot helps guide your first line of stitching evenly along an edge—remember you can shift your needle over slightly to get the placement right. 

For your second line, you could try switching to a 1/4″ patchwork foot (just be sure to move your needle back to centre to avoid breaking it.)

If you prefer not to switch presser feet at all then just use your regular presser foot and shift your needle position over. Sew the first line close to the edge and for the second line, align the edge of the foot with your first line of stitching, then move the needle position over until it falls exactly 6mm away.

Stitch Length:

Use a longer straight stitch than usual. Test on fabric scraps to find your optimal length; something in the ballpark of 2.8-3.8mm tends to work on most denims. Adjust thread tension if needed. 

Handling Bulk:

When dealing with bulky areas like seam intersections, a hump jumper can help you to get over the hurdle whilst retaining even stitches.

A walking foot can help feed all layers evenly, preventing skipped stitches and fabric shifting.

Here are a few more handy tips for top-notch topstitching:

Slow down:

Sewing at a moderate pace gives you more control, cleaner lines, and keeps stitches even. 

Turning Corners:

Use the hand wheel when approaching the corner and make sure your needle is set to the lowered position before pivoting. You could also try stitching one diagonal stitch into the corner before pivoting. This subtle move smooths out the turn and avoids bunching or awkward pulling at the angle.

Bartacks (avoiding thread jams):

If you need to sew bartacks—for example, to reinforce a corner or loop—use a slightly longer stitch length and go over the same spot twice rather than relying on a super dense short stitch. It looks cleaner and reduces the chance of thread jams.

Avoiding Thread Nests:

To keep the start of your stitching tidy, hold onto the thread tails when you begin sewing. And instead of backstitching, pull the thread tails to the back and tie them off in a few small knots. This keeps the stitching clean and flat.

Press your Seams: 

Always press your seams flat first, then press the fold to set the shape before topstitching. After stitching, press again to set the stitches into the fabric. The result is flatter, more professional-looking lines.

Hammer Bulky Areas:

If your machine is struggling to accommodate multiple layers of thick fabric, especially at places like pocket corners or belt loops on denim jeans, you can use a hammer to flatten them out.

Do you have any more tips to add? Share them in the comments below!

Happy sewing, Leanne xx

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