BERNINA Corporate Blog -Dear Overlocker enthusiast, have you already seen and read the blog article for sewing an easy dust cover for your b60 AIRLOCK? If you wish for an alternative for your b68 AIRLOCK Maker Special Edition, you may consider this decorative dust cover!
Click here for more about the bernette 68 Maker, its package of accessories and to learn what Julian Collins has to do with it 🙂
Have you sewn a patch with pinwheels yet or looking for the chance? Challenge yourself by trying different decorative stitches such as bi-color flatlock, drop stitch and stacked coverstitch when making this colorful dust cover.
We will add a decorative chainstitch to hem the side pockets for more durability. You can use them to store your machines foot control and cord or the accessories box, the large/small coverstitch insert or knife cover.
Not to forget the bindings at the pocket on the thread stand side, sewn with the #C21 Double Fold Binder and the #C22 Single Fold Binder. The perfect pocket to store extension table, knee lifter lever and quick start guide.
Also included in this tutorial are practical techniques such as adding a cuff and seaming the cuff-hemmed side panel to the middle with a hem.
In this article which is part 1 of 2, you will find instructions on cutting and how to sew the decorative stitches on the overlocker side.
A separate article, part 2, will detail the decorative coverstitch side and how to assemble and complete the dust cover. It will be available shortly.
Material list
This dust cover was sewn with the b68 AIRLOCK maker Special Edition. Of course, you can also sew it with your b68 or use the combination of the b64 with the b62 to get all the stitching done.
Attach the needles ELx705 CF size 80 and size 90 when using decorative or metallic threads in the needles.
Fabrics, a recommendation
These are the fabrics I used and I can say, they worked well with the stitch and thread combination. But you are free to try the fabrics and quality you may have in stock.
- Corduroy (a soft quality) for the middle panel
- Denim (a soft quality) for the side panels
- Denim (a soft quality) for the rear pocket
- Sweat (a stable quality) for the side pockets
- Rib knit for the side panel cuff
- Quilting Cotton for the bindings and pinwheels
- A label if you like
Threads, a recommendation
Like the fabric recommendation, I used some threads I have in stock. Not all threads are suitable for decorative stitches, especially not in the needles. As always, use some spare fabric cut-offs to perform your sewing tests!
And as usual, I recommend using quality threads for longer lasting seams that withstand wear and tear and washing. Therefore, I go with Mettler Seracor 120. If possible, choose threads matching with the colours of the fabrics.
A total of 5 colourful spools is enough. But as most of you do, I have white, grey and black at hand too.
These are the decorative threads I used and that worked well:
- Madeira Metalic 40, clear blue
- Madeira Metallic 40 turqoise
- Madeira Lana 12, turquoise mesh
- Gunold Sulky 12wt, turquoise
- Gunold Sulky 12wt, pink
- YLI Pearl Crown Rayon or shimmer, silver (a Madeira or Mettler will work too)
- Mettler Silk Finish Cotton 50 Multicolor, matching colours
- Mettler Silk Finish Cotton 28, pink
Optional accessories by BERNINA
These BERNINA accessories are compatible with the b68 AIRLOCK Maker (and other bernette overlock/coverstitch machines)
Double Fold Binder for Unfolded Tape #C21 (by BERNINA)
Single Fold Binder for Unfolded Tape #C22 (by BERNINA)
Accessories Holder for Binder Attachment (for the binders)
… or just one of them is enough to bind the two edges of the rear pocket.
Cutting (cm)
- Middle panel rear part, Corduroy: 44 x 46, 1 piece
- Pinwheel patch, Corduroy: 23 x 23, 4 pieces
- Pinwheels, Quilting Cotton: 15 x 15, 4 pieces
- Rear pocket, Denim: 44 x 25, 1 piece
- Side panels, 35 x 35, 2 pieces (will be cut to measure after decorating)
- Side pockets, Sweat: 34 x 25, 2 pieces
- Rib knit for the side panel cuffs, 34 x 10, 2 pieces
- Bias strip for C21, 3.6 x 55, 1 piece
- Bias strip for C22, 4.0 x 55, 1 piece
Cutting like above listed, all pieces include a seam allowance of 1 – 2 cm. When it comes to the assembly of the pieces, you will receive more details of cutting to measure and cut-off settings.
Here is a sketch of the dust cover pattern with measurements. However, please note, the sketch is not to scale.
If you want to print this not-to-scale sketch, please use this link to a printable .pdf: sketch EN for blog
To download the pattern for the side panel, please use the following link to an A4 file containing 4 pages. But wait, the side panel will be cut to measure after decorating!
Here the pattern A4 in cm.
And here the pattern US letter format and in Inches.
But now, let’s start decorating!
Decorative Stitches
As mentioned above, you may use any suitable thread. Since the stitch selection chart of the b68 is refers to universal overlocker thread, it is a good start of the machine settings, but the thread tensions might differs for your thread. If you use thread qualities similar to mine, remember; your machine may have a slightly different character! Therefore, use my tips as a rough indication and test sew with your machine, fabric and threads to find the suitable settings.
When sewing with decorative threads, fine or heavy, always reduce the sewing speed. I recommend an average 600 stitches per minute. You will see, your sewing result becomes much more regular. Especially since most decorative threads are not on cones but on parallel wound spools.
Here are some good examples of parallel wound spools, cross-wound spools, a miniking spool and a 2500m cone.
Next comes an introduction to various decorative stitches which we will use for the dust cover.
3-thread drop stitch, double drop
This stitch is new. The base is stitch number 2, a 3-thread superstretch with loose needle threads. I.e., please follow the stitch selection chart to set the machine for this stitch.
- Needles: ELx705 CF 90, it is important to use a size 90 needle – or a size 100 if your fabric quality permits.
- Madeira Metallic 40 in LN
- Madeira Metallic 40 in RN
- Seracor 120 in LL (I threaded the colour to match the fabric)
As we are creating our own stitch, we will not use the defaults, but the following settings:
- LN 0, RN 0, LL 5
- CW 7, SL 5, mtc +2, sewing speed max. 600
Test-sew and fine-tune.
Here is what it looks like:
the lower stitch sample shows using 1 needle only.
the upper stitch sample shows using 2 needles, resulting in a glimmery drop.
Side pocket 1:
Neaten your side pocket on both long edges, right side up. Can you see that both sides of the stitch are decorative?
Then it is ready for ironing, so you may press your fabric. Put your side pocket away for its second step, that will be sewn later: hemming with a 2-thread chainstitch.
2-thread wrapped overlock stitch
Select Stitch 9, a 2-thread wrapped overlock stitch.
- Madeira Metallic 40 in LL
- Madeira Lana 12 in LL
- Both decorative Madeira threads are threaded together into the lower looper. Since this will not work with the air threader, use a thread loop. You will find detailed instructions in our video tutorial about threading alternatives, see link below.
- Seracor 120 in LN (I threaded the suitable colour to match the fabric)
When threading two threads into the same looper, your airthreader may not take them. For alternative threading methods, please refer to our video tutorial:
When threading two threads into the same looper, you can also have the spools stand on the thread stand individually and use the respective thread antenna guide that fits that spool pin. Guide the threads together into the pre-tension guide.
Settings are:
- LN 2.5, LL 3
- CW 7, SL 2.5, mtc 0, sewing speed max. 600
Test-sew and fine-tune.
Side pocket 2:
Neaten side pocket on both long edges, wrong side up.
Can you see how well Metallic and Lana threads work together for a beautiful, reversible decorative edge?
Press the edges. Put your side pocket away for its second step, that will be sewn later: hemming with 2-thread chainstitch.
3-thread overlock
Select Stitch 3, a 3-thread overlock wide
- Gunold Sulky 12wt in UL
- Gunold Sulky 12wt in LL
- Seracor 120 in LN (I threaded a suitable colour to match the other threads)
Settings are:
- LN 4, UL 4, LL 4
- CW 6, deactivate the knife, align the seam guide (included with b68 maker) to CW 6 , SL 2, mtc 0, sewing speed max. 900, PFP (presser foot pressure) a bit less than default.
Test-sew and fine-tune.
Fold your Quilting Cotton Squares diagonally to triangles, wrong sides facing. Press. Sew along the diagonally folded edge, guiding the fold on the 6 mm mark of the tip of the presser foot. Stitch all four pieces.
Ready for pressing. Put your pinwheels aside for processing later.
3-thread flatlock bi-colour
This stitch is “semi-new”. The base is stitch 5, a 3-thread flatlock.
- Gunold Sulky 12wt in UL
- Gunold Sulky 12wt in LL
- Seracor 120 in LN (I threaded a suitable colour to match the other threads)
Have you noticed something? No threading change needed, just the settings need adjustment.
- LN 0, UL 6, LL 6
- CW 6, don’t forget to re-activate the knife.SL 2.5, mtc 0, sewing speed max. 900, PFP default
Test-sew and fine-tune. You should see both looper threads on the upper side, meeting halfway, if you like. The needle thread goes until the fabric edge.
You see in my sample that I did a proper flatlock and then a bi-colour one. I make th same on my side panel.
Side panel 1:
Plan the decorative stitches on the “upper half” of your side panel. Fold the fabric wrong sides facing. Sew, guiding the folded edge and cutting just a mm off. If you are a skilled overlocker sewist, you may use the seam guide and avoid trimming: Just guide the fabric fold halfway between the needle and the knife.
I recommend sewing two or three seams across the panel.
Then pull the stitch as flat as it will go and press.
It is of course up to you to decorate both side panels in the same way or go for another decoration with side panel 2 later on.
Patchwork Pinwheels / Middle Panel
- Stitch 1, 4-thread overlock
- Seracor 120, in all threading paths, I threaded the LN in the colour best matching the fabric.
- CW 7, PFP 4
Sewing sample in Corduroy.
Fold the four Quilting Cotton triangles into pinwheels and place them on the corduroy patches. I tried to make sure to keep a distance of 2.5 cm from the centre. Pin them in place.
Sew 2 patches each into a strip.
By the way, I did not only turn the pinwheels by 90 degrees, but also the fabric grain of my Corduroy. But of course it is up to you if you want to follow this suggestion.
The result looks as follows:
Align the two strips, starting in the middle, and sew them together to form a pinwheel patch.
And this is the result:
Ready for ironing, then press.
Middle panel assembly
Before adding the middle panel rear piece to the pinwheel patch, decide if your label can go into that seam. As you see, I forgot mine and added it later onto the patched piece with a chainstitch.
Pin the pinwheel patch to the middle panel rear piece. Sew together with a seam allowance of 1 cm, i.e. having a cutting width of 7, trim 3 mm.
You now have the middle panel at a length of approx. 86 cm and a width of approx. 44 cm. If you did not reach 86 cm length, don’t worry, you can consider a narrower hem later when assembling the side panels.
However, measure the length of your panel and cut it to an equal length. Mine is 86 cm.
Neaten the two narrow edges of the middle panel with 4-thread overlock, having a cutting width 6 mm and trim approx. 3 mm. For the sake of ease and for more stability of the hem to be, I did stick to a 4-thread overlock stitch. But of course, if you prefer a wide 3-thread overlock, that would also be suitable for a fabric quality like corduroy or similar.
Side panels with cuff
Select Stitch 1, a 4-thread overlock
- Seracor 120, in all threading paths, I threaded the LN in the colour best matching the fabric.
- CW 7, PFP 4
Sewing samples in Sweat.
You may have only decorated one side panel by now, the one with the flatlock. The other will be decorated later with a coverstitch. However, that will not interfere with the cuff, so let’s make the cuff now.
Fold the rib knits (2 pieces) in half, wrong sides facing, press. Place one rib knits on each lower edge of the side panels, right sides facing.
Sew together with 4-thread overlock, trim approx. 3 mm.
Press the seam allowance away from the cuff.
By now you are done with the first part, using your b68 maker for overlock stitches and new decorative creations. How do you like what you did so far?
Have you tried something new?
You are on your best way to have not only the bernette 68 AIRLOCK maker Special Edition, but also a suitable dust cover for it!
We will continue with part 2 soon; Sewing coverstitch and chainstitch, binding the rear pocket as well as assemble the dust cover. Please look forward to the article following in a few days!
Until then, happy stitching
Doris
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