How to sew in different types of sleeves

Welcome to the next tips & tricks article! We will share exciting tips from various inspiration magazines about sewing concealed button plackets, a collar with stand, polo closure and more. Todays tip about “How to sew in different types of sleeves” is from inspiration issue 3-21.

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The photos in this example are from the jersey dress “Swantje”

Important with all sleeves

All markings in the top parts and the sleeves are in place. Generally, these are the markings at the front armhole and the shoulder of the sleeve plus the markings of the seam allowances. Depending on the material, this is done by clipping the seam allowance vertically – no more than half the width of the allowance – or by using a marker pen. However, cut-ins have the advantage that they are clearly visible from both sides of the fabric. Yet they are not recommended with fabrics that fray heavily.

Sleeves with regular top shaping

First close the sleeve seams, shoulder seams and side seams and finish the allowances.

How to gather the top shaping: there are two methods here, the simple and the slightly more elaborated one.

Simple method: The standard extra sleeve width of up to 3% is sufficient for most types of fabric ( standard in Inspiration ). Sew along the top shaping 1–2 mm next to the seam line on the allowance with a long straight stitch ( approx. 5–6 mm ). Pull on the bobbin thread and gather the extra width of the sleeve.
Simple method: Seam line on the allowance
More elaborated method: This method is particularly useful for ruffled sleeves or if there is a lot of extra width. It ensures particularly even ruffles which are then accurately at right angles to the stitching line in the end. Sew along the top shaping on the right and on the left side of the seam line with a long straight stitch and afterwards tighten the bobbin threads.
Elaborated method: Sew to the left and right to the seam line

Pin all markings of the sleeve and the top part right side on right side on top of each other along the armholes. To the left and the right of the side seam, pin up to approx. 1/3 of the height.

Ärmel einnähen verschiedene

From then on, spread the extra width evenly, most of the “waves” are likely to be in the shoulder area. For this purpose, it may also be necessary to tighten the tightened bobbin thread a little more or a little less. Pin down well.

It is best to sew in the sleeves on the sleeve side so that small pleats/ruffles can be aligned again while sewing before the needle stitches them. Turn the top part over and check it; try it on if necessary. Iron the extra width flat on the allowance. Finish the sleeve seam along the armhole in one go. Place the allowances in the shoulder area in the sleeve.

Sleeves with flat top shaping

In a sense, this is THE sleeve for beginners! Provided that the flattened, folded sleeve seam does not run too pointedly upwards, as can be seen in figure 7a. The shape in drawing 7b is perfect for this. To sew in the sleeve, only the shoulder seam is closed, the sleeve and side seams are open.

This sleeve does not need to be gathered. First, pin the sleeves from the sleeve side on all the markings and the sleeve seamsnon the side seams, then pin on the rest of the top shaping. Sew in the sleeves.

Tip: While doing so, leave the allowance open at the beginning and end of the seam. Clip the allowances on the front and back parts along the curves in front of the side seam. Place the allowances in the front and back parts, finish them, iron them if necessary, or topstitch them in the top part.

Pin the crossing points of the sleeve insert seam on top of each other, then continuously pin all other markings of the sleeve and top together and close both seams in one go. Clip the allowance along the curve under the arm and finish the seam.

Tip: If the side/sleeve seam is not rounded, close the side seam first without including the sleeve allowances. Then close the sleeve seam exactly from the beginning of the side seam.