Today, I have a very special sewing tutorial for you. I’ll show you how to sew a casual and super cozy knitted sweater.
Personally, I love knitted sweaters because they are just perfect for cold autumn and winter days – cozy, warm, and always stylish. The great thing about a knitted sweater is that not only is it incredibly comfortable, but it’s also quick to sew.
In this tutorial, we will sew the “Bettina” sweater with a bateau neckline and a small but fine detail: The cuff strips meet directly at the shoulder and create a special eye-catching effect. You can also use other sweater patterns for this tutorial – however, the steps for the neckline may vary. You will see, this sweater is a real all-rounder that fits many occasions and flatters every figure. So, grab your favorite knitted fabric and let’s get started – you will love this sweater!
How to Sew a Knitted Sweater – Tutorial
Required Materials
- Sewing pattern for a knitted sweater, e.g. “Bettina Sweater” from Creavision Lab
- About 2m of flowing knitted fabric (thin-medium thickness), viscose jersey, cotton jersey
- Matching sewing thread
- 1m Framilon tape (for knitted fabric)
- Tailor’s chalk or fabric marker
- Fabric scissors or rotary cutter with cutting mat
- Fabric clips and/or pins
- Sewing machine and overlock machine, e.g. BERNINA 540 and bernette 62 AIRLOCK
Sewing Pattern
Note: In this tutorial, I am using the “Bettina Sweater” pattern.
Bettina has a refined bateau neckline. For other patterns, this step may vary if the neckline is finished with a simple cuff or collar.
Sewing Instructions
Take the pattern pieces for the neckbands and transfer the seam lines, the seam ends, and the notches to the wrong side of the pieces.
Place the two neckband pieces right sides together so that the short sides and seam lines align with each other. Pin the two neckband pieces together precisely and sew along the two seam lines using a straight stitch. Sew up to the marked seam ends and secure the seam ends thoroughly.
Now fold the neckband pieces wrong sides together along the seam.
This is how the neckband should look like from the side…
… and this is how the assembled neckband looks like when you lay it out flat in front of you.
Take the back bodice and make sure that all the notches are transferred correctly.
Lay the back bodice in front of you with the right side of the fabric facing up. Pin the back neckband to the neckline of the back bodice, right sides facing each other. The notches must align precisely.
Sew the neckband in place without stretching (!) using an elastic stitch or the overlock (serger).
As the front and back bodice are very similar, it is advisable to mark the e.g. the back bodice. This way you can avoid confusion.
Place the front and back pieces right sides together. Pin the front neckband to the neckline of the front piece, making sure that the notches meet exactly.
Sew the front neckband in place without stretching (!) using an elastic stitch or the overlock.
This is how the attached neckband should look like.
Carefully press the seam allowances of the neckband towards the front or back at a low temperature.
Unfold the sweater with the wrong side of the fabric facing up. Pin the sleeve to the armhole, right sides together, matching the notches. Ensure the shoulder notch on the sleeve aligns exactly with the shoulder seam.
Preview: Make sure that the seam allowances of the neckband lie flat in the direction of the front or back piece when sewing.
Now sew the sleeve in place using a basting stitch (with a long stitch length).
Repeat the steps for the second sleeve so that both sleeves are attached with a basting stitch.
For knitted fabrics you will need the clear elastic tape. For other fabricscontinue with the next steps without using the tape.
Place the tape on the basting seam and sew both sleeves in place using an elastic stitch or the overlock without stretching the fabric.
The clear elastic tape is now sewn into the sleeve seam and the sleeves are sewn in place. Remove the basting stitches if desired.
Place the front and back pieces right sides together and secure the side and sleeve seams with pins or clips.
Now sew the side seams and sleeve seams on both sides using an elastic stitch or an overlock seam.
Fold the sleeve cuffs right sides together along the fold line and pin the long sides.
Then sew along the long side to create a loop.
Then, fold the cuff in half again, this time widthwise, so the wrong sides are touching and the raw edges are aligned.
You now have a doubled cuff with the right side of the fabric facing out. The cuffs are ready to be attached to the sleeves.
Turn the sweater wrong side facing out. Now slide the cuff into the sleeve with the folded edge first, right sides facing.
Make sure that the seam of the sleeve and the seam of the cuff align precisely.
Pin the raw edge of the cuff to the raw edge of the sleeve. To do so, the sleeve cuff must be stretched slightly, as it has a slightly smaller circumference than the raw edge of the sleeve.
Sew the cuff in place using an elastic stitch or the overlocker, stretching the cuff evenly while sewing. Make sure not to stretch the sleeve though. Then repeat the same steps for the other sleeve.
The sweater is now almost finished. Lay the two pattern pieces for the hem band right sides together and sew the two short edges using an elastic stitch or the overlock.
Fold the hem band in half lengthwise, so the wrong sides are together and the raw edges are aligned. You now have a double-layered hem band with the right side of the fabric facing out.
Turn the sweater wrong side out and slide the hem band into the sweater smooth edge first.
Pin the raw edges of the hem band to the bottom edge of the sweater, right sides together, aligning the seams and notches.
Stretch the hem band slightly to fit the bottom edge of the shirt, then sew the hem band to the shirt using an elastic stitch or an overlocker.
Your knitted sweater is ready!
The beautiful sewing example comes from Rabea, aka prettypattern.
I wish you a lot of fun sewing, and a wonderful cozy autumn and winter!
Sonja
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