BERNINA Corporate Blog -I feel like some people are ‘summer dress’ people, while others are ‘wide leg pants in the summer’ people. I fall mostly into the latter category. Pull-on pants are comfortable, cool, and you can dress them up or down. I was excited to find this free pants pattern from Fabrics-store.com, and it didn’t disappoint.
I used a dressier fabric so these pants are work-appropriate, but with a simple tank and sandals, they are also perfect for a day of running errands or strolling along the beach.
So, grab some lightweight, breezy fabric and sew along with me!
Materials Needed:
- #BERNINA 590 Sewing Machine
- Sewing machine foot: #1D
- Blindstitch Foot #5
- Free PDF Download
- Fabric: 2 to 3 yards (depending on options and which size you choose). I chose a textured polyester woven with a lot of drape. Linen would be a fabulous choice as well.
- Thread
- Elastic
- Wonder Tape
- Pins or Clips
Preparing your Pattern and Fabric:
The pattern download is designed to be printed and taped together.
- Free print-at-home format on US letter or A4 paper
- Layered PDF to print just your size
Alternatively, you can import the pattern into the Pattern Projector app and use the settings from the image below to assemble the pattern into projector format by ‘stitching’ the pages together. I like this Yoton projector and the Free Pattern Projector software.
Pattern Projector settings for stitching pages into a projector format.
Cutting your Fabric for your Wide Leg Pants:
Cut out your pattern pieces. I added 6 inches to the bottom of each pant leg to lengthen them because I wanted full-length pants. You can choose to sew them to the culotte length as per the pattern, or choose your own length.
Sew In-Seam Pockets:
Finish the edges of all pocket pieces with a serger or zig-zag stitch. Match each pocket’s top and bottom edges to the pocket notches in the pattern and sew right sides together at a 3/8” seam.
Serge or zigzag the raw edges of the side seams.
Flip each pocket piece and press so that all pockets are facing outwards. Understitch each piece along the seam allowances to allow the pockets to lie nicely and stay hidden.
Understitching allows the pockets to lie flat with the pocket bags hidden inside.
If you would like an in-depth tutorial for sewing pockets, here is one you can reference:
Secret to a hidden inseam pocket
Sewing the Pants:
Pin the front and the back of your garment with the right sides together. Match up the side seams and the pockets.
Sew the side seams of the front and back pattern pieces together, stitching around the pocket bags, with a 3/8″ seam allowance.
Then, press the seams and the pockets towards the center front of your pants.
Reinforce the pocket openings with two bartacks. If you are using the BERNINA 590, you can use stitch 24.
Select stitch #24 for bar tacks.
Serge or zigzag the raw edges of each inseam edge.
Pin the inseam of each leg together (front and back) and sew with a ⅜” seam allowance.
Turn one pant leg right side out and insert it into the other pant leg, with right sides together.
Sew the crotch seams together.
Place one pant leg inside the other and stitch the crotch seam.
Sewing the Waist:
To create the elastic casing, fold the raw edge 3/8” to the wrong side and press. Then, press another 2 1/8” and pin in place.
Stitch the bottom edge of the casing, leaving a 2-3” opening to insert the elastic.
Using a safety pin or elastic threader, insert the elastic into the casing.
Insert the elastic into the waist casing.
Try on your wide-leg pants and adjust for fit. Stitch the ends of the elastic together by overlapping and stitching a box with an x to reinforce.
After, stitch the opening closed.
Adjust the gathers and stitch through the elastic. Divide the casing into three equal parts and run two lines of topstitching, stretching the elastic as you go.
Topstitch the elastic for a beautiful finish.
Hemming your Wide Leg Pants:
Try on your pants for length and hem by turning up 1” then 1” again. Topstitch or use a blind hem.
I used a blind hem with the Blindstitch Foot #5
and stitch number 9 on the BERNINA 590.
Here is a video tutorial if you are new to using your blindstitch foot:
Finish the raw edge of the bottom of each pant leg with a serger or zigzag.
Press the hem to the desired depth. Fold the hem back, leaving about ¼” between the fold and hem edge.
Stitch each hem and press.
The blind hem foot creates a nearly invisible hem finish.
Additional Tips:
This pattern is incredibly versatile. If you choose linen or cotton fabrics, they will be cool in the summer heat, and you can create a whole wardrobe with solids and prints. Lightweight poly or rayon fabrics can give you a dressier look for work or more formal events.
I can’t wait to see what everyone sewing and wearing this summer. I know that I will be adding several more pairs of these wide-leg pants to my closet very soon.
Happy stitching!
Heather @ManitoulinThreads🧵✂
What width size elastic should I use?
2″ elastic is the best for this to have the wide waistband with horizontal stitching.