Sewing a Bucket Bag from Chanel fabric – with free pattern

Today we are sewing a Bucket Bag from Chanel fabric, a truly wonderful topic with simply enchanting fabrics. Today, I want to sew a classic bucket bag featuring the incredibly beautiful Chanel fabric in radiant blue. This bag, with its pouch shape, is a practical everyday companion that can be styled both casually and elegantly. 

 

Chanel fabric in a new way: sewing a Bucket Bag from Tweed

I am Stephi from the label Frollein Tausendschön. On my Instagram @frollein_tausendschoen, everything revolves around sewing, embroidery, and plotting. As a passionate bag sewer, it was clear to me: the Chanel fabric had to be turned into a bucket bag. I absolutely love this pouch-style bag for everyday use. It fits a lot and can be styled in so many different ways.

We create the pattern for the bucket bag ourselves, which is super easy with this shape. This way, you can make adjustments if you want.

Sewing a Bucket Bag from Chanel fabric – what to consider

To make the Chanel fabric suitable for a bag, we need to reinforce it. Even though the bucket bag has a soft, pouch-like shape, the fabric should not be used without interfacing.

I use G700, but S320 would also work. I sew the bucket bag on my BERNINA 770 QE PLUS and use one of my favorite presser feet, the Reverse Pattern Foot with Clear Sole #34. Additionally, I use an outdoor fabric (in my case Oilskin) as a complementary fabric to add stability to the bottom and the drawstring area. Canvas, faux leather, or similar fabrics would also work well here.

The Materials

• Chanel fabric 40 cm x full fabric width
• Lining fabric 40 cm x full fabric width
• Sturdy contrast fabric (Oilskin, canvas, faux leather, …) 40 cm x full fabric width
• Interfacing G700 40 cm x full fabric width
• Batting H630 40 cm x full fabric width
• 10 eyelets and matching tool
• 1 m cord, 0.5 mm (or matching the eyelet diameter)
• 2 D-rings (desired width, we adjust the tabs accordingly)
• Webbing 1.5 m in desired width
• 2 carabiners and a ladder lock buckle matching the webbing width
• Labels & accessories as desired
• Matching sewing thread (for example Seralon by Mettler)

Cutting the Bucket Bag

• Center piece W x H: 34 x 27 cm – 2x Chanel fabric (or woven fabric) // 2x interfacing G700 or S320
• Bottom W x H: 34 x 16 cm – 1x contrast fabric (Oilskin, canvas, faux leather) // 1x interfacing G700 or S320
• Tunnel W x H: 67 x 12 cm – 1x contrast fabric (Oilskin, canvas, faux leather) // 1x interfacing G700 or S320
• Strap holders W x H: (width of D-ring bar + 2 cm) x 8 cm
• Cord stopper W x H: 6 x 5 cm – 1x outer fabric B
• Insert pocket W x H: 10 x 14 cm – 1x non-fraying material (e.g. faux leather)
• Lining W x H: 34 x 85 cm – 1x lining fabric (cotton, canvas, …)
• Batting for lining piece W x H: 32 x 83 cm – 1x batting H630 
• Band for fringe cord W x H: 3.5 cm x 120 cm – 1x Chanel fabric

Cutting the Corners 

For the bottom piece and the lining, cut out corners to give the bag depth later.

The corner size is 4 x 4 cm.

Take the bottom piece and the lining piece, fold at the lower edge along the fabric fold, and fix everything with weights to prevent slipping. Mark a square measuring 4 x 4 cm at each side, measured from the fold edge. Cut the corners through both layers. 

Sewing the Bucket Bag – the Instructions

General Information Before Sewing

The bucket bag requires only a few pattern pieces that you can easily cut with a rotary cutter/scissors and a ruler. No paper pattern is needed, which is great for the planet 😉. Basically, you can mark directly on the wrong side of your fabric and then cut. The 1 cm seam allowance is already included in the measurements. If we deviate from this seam allowance during sewing, it will be noted in the relevant step of the instructions. 

Always backstitch at the beginning and end of seams. Use a stitch length of 3 for assembling the pieces and 3.5–3.8 for topstitching, depending on your fabric. For faux leather, choose a longer stitch length to avoid perforating the fabric.

Preparing the Bucket Bag

First, cut your fabrics according to the specified measurements. Reinforce your fabrics with interfacing as follows:

The lining pieces get one layer of batting H630. Don’t be surprised if the batting pieces are smaller than the fabric pieces — they don’t include seam allowances so the seams won’t get bulky and fewer layers meet there later.

The outer fabric is reinforced with G700 or S320 over the entire surface. This is especially important for the Chanel fabric. If you use faux leather, Oilskin, or similar for the contrast fabric, check individually if reinforcement is necessary for those pieces. 

Also, prepare your threads and wind your bobbins accordingly. I use polyester thread (Seralon by Mettler) for sewing pieces together and a thicker cotton thread (Silk Finish Cotton 40wt by Mettler) for topstitching, which gives bags a nice look. Thanks to the Multiple-spool Holder, my threads are right at the machine, so I only have to re-thread.

Making the Shoulder Strap

I like to start with small parts to reduce clutter on the sewing table.

For the bucket bag, we first make the shoulder strap. Depending on desired length and carrying comfort, you need 1.3–1.5 m of webbing in the desired width plus two matching carabiners and a ladder lock buckle. Make an adjustable strap by first threading a carabiner onto the open end of the webbing. Fold the end of the strap twice and sew it on the machine. You can sew two lines or an X-box here because the strap will bear weight later. 

Next, thread the ladder lock buckle onto the open strap end and then thread that end from the top through the second carabiner. Then thread the strap end from below back through the ladder lock buckle and secure it on the lower strap with a seam. Finish the open edge of the strap with a zigzag stitch.

Connecting Outer Fabric: Bottom and Center Pieces

You need your bottom piece and the center pieces of the outer bucket bag. Place one center piece right sides together with the bottom piece’s top edge. Secure with clips and sew the seam with a 1 cm seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance corners slightly on a diagonal. Be careful not to cut into the outer fabric but only the two layers of seam allowance. This reduces bulk later and gives a cleaner overall look.

Press the seams between the bottom and center piece flat (follow the manufacturer’s instructions for your fabrics — for Oilskin and similar, simply smooth with your fingers). 

Then topstitch the seams again on the main fabric very close to the edge, meaning with a seam allowance of 0.2 cm. Feel free to use a longer stitch length here and possibly a thicker thread for a great look.

Bucket Bag: Designing the Front

If you want to decorate the front of your bucket bag with embroidery, prints, labels, or similar, now is the right time. I am opting for a trapunto (a 3D effect worked out from the fabric), which is easy to do “just” with the sewing machine, so no embroidery module needed.

For this, you just need some embroidery foam (Puffy) onto which you transfer your desired motif. Make sure to mirror your designs/letters if necessary so they don’t appear reversed on the front later.

Place the motif with Stylefix (double-sided tape for sewing) at the desired position on the back side of the fabric and sew it closely around on the embroidery foam using stitch length 2. Due to the small stitch length, the excess foam edge can be easily trimmed afterwards.

If you like, you can topstitch the trapunto again on the right side of the fabric with a longer stitch length and decorative thread. Simply sew exactly along the first seam. Secure your trapunto from the left side of the fabric with a layer of fusible web.

Preparing the Strap Holders

Now it’s time for the strap holders with the D-rings. You have cut these individually to fit your D-ring width.

Press the long edges 1 cm inward on each.

Then fold the long edges right sides together and secure the open edge with clips.

Topstitch the long edges closely and then thread a D-ring onto each of the finished loops.

Bucket Bag: Finishing the Outer Part

Next, we attach the D-ring holders to the outer part. Position the tabs 3 cm from the top edge of the front piece. Leave about 1 cm of the tab protruding at the edge. Secure the tabs within the seam allowance – sew over the tabs several times for reinforcement.

Now close the outer part. Lay the fabrics right sides together, folding the bottom piece. Make sure the seams where the side pieces meet the bottom piece align exactly.

Then secure the side seams with clips and sew them closed with a 1 cm seam allowance.

Now trim the seam allowance by about half; feel free to use pinking shears again here.

Closing the Corners

Next, the two corners need to be closed.

Press the corners right sides together so that the side seam meets the center of the bottom. Secure this section with clips and sew it closed with a 1 cm seam allowance.

Here too, you can trim the seam allowance by about half.

The outer part is now prepared, and we will continue with the lining.

Sewing the Bucket Bag: Making the Lining

One word beforehand: I find the lining to be a very personal matter. Everyone prefers different compartments and solutions inside their bag. For example, I personally cannot do without a key clip. In this tutorial, I’ll show you an easy-peasy slip pocket. This pocket is cut from non-fraying material such as cork, faux leather, or similar.

Attaching the Slip Pocket

First, take the pattern piece for your slip pocket. Press the top edge 1 cm to the wrong side and secure everything with clips.

Topstitch the top edge now with a 0.5 cm seam allowance.

Then place a strip of Stylefix on the back of the slip pocket along the three edges that are not folded. Be careful to place the tape so you won’t sew over it later; otherwise, the needle might get sticky, which can be a bit annoying.

Next, mark the center of the top edges of the lining pieces by folding the side edges together and marking the upper middle with a small notch within the seam allowance.

Remove the backing paper and position the slip pocket centered on one lining piece, about 6 cm from the top edge.

Topstitch the slip pocket closely on both side edges and the bottom edge onto the lining piece. At the top edge, sew a few stitches beyond the pocket for better security against tearing later.

Finishing the Lining

To close the lining, lay the sides right sides together. Secure the sides with clips and leave a 10-15 cm turning opening on one side. Sew the seams with a 1 cm seam allowance, leaving the turning opening unsewn.

Then close the corners as you did with the outer part and trim the seam allowance. Afterwards, you can turn the lining right side out and check everything.

Joining Outer Fabric and Lining

Now lay both parts of the bucket bag side by side. The parts should be the same height. If you notice any differences, they should be corrected now.

Make the Tunnel

Take the pattern piece for the tunnel and pin the short ends right sides together. Sew the seam with a 1 cm seam allowance.

Press the seam allowance open and then topstitch the seam closely from the right side.

Mark the front and back centers on both the top and bottom edges of the tunnel with a clip.

Attach All Parts

Next, take the outer bag.

Turn the tunnel inside out and pull it over the outer piece so that the right sides of the fabric face each other. Pin the top edges together and sew the seam with a 1 cm seam allowance.

Then fold the tunnel upwards and press the seam flat if necessary. Topstitch closely on the middle section.

Now add the lining piece. First, turn it inside out again. Pull it over the outer piece so that the right sides face each other. Pin the top edge of the lining to the top edge of the tunnel and sew the seam with a 1 cm seam allowance.

Turn the bag through the opening and shape everything nicely. Also, check all seams once again.

If everything fits, topstitch the turning opening closed.

Now some finesse is needed. Adjust the tunnel so that the seam edges meet exactly. The tunnel should have the same height everywhere; be sure to measure this in several places. Pin the top edge of the tunnel if everything fits evenly.

Then topstitch the tunnel closely.

Attach Eyelets

We will place 10 eyelets on the tunnel to later thread a cord through for the classic bucket bag look.

Mark the front center of the tunnel with a water-soluble pen. The eyelets will be placed exactly centered on the tunnel piece. Now measure 3 cm to the left and right from the center mark. Attach the first two eyelets here using the tool of your choice.

Now always measure 6 cm to the left and right from the previous eyelet to the next one. It is important to always measure from the respective eyelet further to the left or right and not place all eyelets 6 cm from one side. The spacing in the back center is slightly smaller, and only by evenly placing eyelets on both sides do they distribute evenly on the front.

Make the Fringe Ribbon

If you like, you can now make a cord ribbon in the classic Chanel look.

For this, simply cut a strip 3.5 cm wide and 120 cm long.

Place a cord (matching the diameter of your eyelets) centered on the left side of the fabric strip.

Then fold the long edges right sides together and pin everything.

Sew the strip close to the cord; this works great with the Zipper Foot #4, allowing you to sew very close to the cord.

Now, pull threads lengthwise out of the Chanel fabric to create the well-known fringed edge.

Thread the cord through the eyelets.

Cord Stopper for the Bucket Bag

Lastly, we create a cord stopper to complete the classic look of the bucket bag.

Sturdier materials are suitable for the cord stopper, such as oilskin, faux leather, and similar fabrics.

Cut a piece measuring H x W: 5 x 6 cm. On the left side of the fabric, mark a line 1 cm from the top and bottom edges.

Fold the long edges so that they lie exactly on the marking (fold the long edges 0.5 cm to the wrong side each) and secure everything with a zigzag stitch.

Then place the short edges right sides together and sew the seam with only a 0.5 cm seam allowance.

Now turn the cord stopper right side out; this might be a bit fiddly.

Place the seam in the back center and press everything well.

Then you can slide the cord stopper onto the cord. To secure it firmly, stitch it again in the middle between the cords. Be sure not to sew the cords in place, as the stopper should remain movable. This works well if you pull the cords slightly to the sides while sewing.

Finally, trim your cord ends to the desired length and knot them.

Yay, you did it! Your bucket bag is now finished and ready to be taken out and admired. Enjoy it!