BERNINA Corporate Blog -You see them everywhere these days: Mini-bags, carry wallets, or spacious crossbody handbags. Bags with lots of space and functionality in a compact size are an absolute hit. And rightly so: they’re super practical for everyday use. Everything fits in a compact space, keeping your smartphone, credit cards, and essentials always within reach. When more space is needed, the Mini-Bag can still hold the essentials and easily be tucked into a backpack or shopper. In a two-part tutorial series, I’ll show you how to sew such a practical Mini-Bag with a free pattern. My model is called SOMMAR.
We’re sewing a cool carry wallet
I’m Stephi from the label Frollein Tausendschön. On instagram.com/frollein_tausendschoen and my associated YouTube channel, I share all things sewing, embroidery, and crafting. With the Mini-Bag SOMMAR, I’m bringing you an awesome free pattern today.
In this first part, we’ll focus on preparations and the zipper.
Free Sewing pattern for Mini-Bag SOMMAR
Here’s the pattern for the Mini-Bag SOMMAR:
Sewing the Mini-Bag / Carry Wallet
Admittedly, the Mini-Bag SOMMAR is not a one-night sewing project. Some experience with sewing bags or backpacks is definitely an advantage, but with patience, even skilled beginners can tackle this project. Our little bag features a large main compartment that can be clipped at the top edges using snap fasteners.
This gives the bag a distinctive look and provides the option to create additional storage space when needed. The bag flap is secured with a stylish safety closure, the Loxx button. On the front, there’s a wallet compartment with a wrap-around zipper, held in place when opened by side flaps. This compartment is perfect for holding credit cards and a smartphone. The main compartment of the Mini-Bag provides enough space for keys, tissues, and even a regular wallet (a feature many Mini-bags often lack). Whether in a single color, minimalist design, or trendy color blocking, your Mini-Bag offers plenty of creative freedom and is sure to become your new favorite accessory.
Today, I’m sewing a Mini-Bag in vibrant color blocking on my BERNINA 570 QE and using my current favorite presser foot for most seams: the Reverse Pattern Foot with Clear Sole #34.
Sewing the Mini-Bag / Carry Wallet – General Tips
The Mini-Bag SOMMAR is best made with materials suitable for bags, such as oilskin, canvas, or faux leather. Depending on the material, you may need to reinforce it with Vlieseline H250. Only heavy canvas can be used without reinforcement. For the lining of the main compartment, both canvas and cotton are suitable, but for the wallet compartment lining, only cotton should be used.
The fabric pieces can be fused with interfacing beforehand, following the instructions provided by the interfacing manufacturer. The Decovil pieces will be inserted and fused at a later stage. Detailed instructions for this will follow in the guide.
Good to know…
Unless otherwise stated in the instructions, the seam allowance is 1 cm. Adjust the stitch length to the material. For materials like oilskin, faux leather, etc., avoid using a stitch length that is too short.
Many bag fabrics are sensitive to pins, so we primarily use fabric clips.
Style-Fix, a type of double-sided sewing tape, is a great helper for the Mini Bag. However, avoid sewing directly over the taped areas to prevent the needle from becoming sticky.
Mini-Bag / Carry Wallet Sewing – Materials
- Outer fabric (oilskin, canvas, faux leather, etc.) 0.5 m x fabric width (if using different colors, adjust quantities accordingly)
- Lining fabric (cotton, canvas) 0.5 m x fabric width
- Vlieseline H250
- Vlieseline H630 (volume fleece)
- Decovil
- Zipper with 6.5 mm teeth, 60 cm
- Zipper with 4.5 mm teeth
- LOXX closure (note: you will need the appropriate tool for installation)
- 2 D-rings, 1.5 cm
- For the bag strap: 1.4 m webbing in the desired width, 2 matching carabiners, and an adjustable slider
- 2 snap buttons
- Thread
- Optional: Mesh fabric for an inner zippered mesh pocket
- Optional: Labels, iron-on patches, etc.
Nice to have:
- Style-Fix
- Vario pliers or a tool for attaching snap buttons
Mini-Bag / Carry Wallet Sewing – Let’s Get Started!
Prepare the Pattern
First, download the Mini Bag SOMMAR pattern to your computer and print it at 100% scale. Avoid printing directly from your browser, as this can cause issues. Be sure to check the correct scale using the test square on the pattern.
Cutting
Cut out the pattern pieces as indicated on the paper pattern. Below is an overview of the required pieces:
- Piece 1: Front/Back – 2x outer fabric, 2x lining fabric, 2x H250, 2x H630
- Piece 2: Side Panel – 1x outer fabric (on fold), 1x lining fabric (on fold), 1x H250 (on fold), 1x H630 (on fold)
- Piece 3: Zippered Wing Pocket – 2x outer fabric, 2x lining fabric (cotton), 2x H250
- Piece 3a: Interfacing for Piece 3 – 2x Decovil (to be fused later)
- Piece 4: Wing + Divider for Outer Pocket – 4x lining fabric (cotton) for wings, 2x lining fabric (cotton) for divider
- Piece 4a: Interfacing for Piece 4 – 1x Decovil (to be fused later)
- Piece 5: Bottom of Outer Pocket – 1x outer fabric, 1x lining fabric (cotton), 1x H630
- Piece 6: Slip Pocket – 4x lining fabric
- Piece 7: Bag Flap – 2x outer fabric, 1x H630
- Piece 8: Card Pockets for Zippered Wing Pocket – 2x lining fabric (cotton)
- Piece 9: Tabs for D-rings – 2x outer fabric
Reinforcing
Now, iron the interfacing onto the pieces as indicated in the pattern instructions. Only the Decovil pieces will be fused later. Reinforce the outer fabric pieces with H250 and the lining pieces of the main bag with H630.
Mini-Bag / Carry Wallet Sewing – Bag Flap
We’ll begin sewing the Mini-Bag with the bag flap. Take the necessary pieces (2x Piece 7). If you want to add a label, now is the time. You can also decorate the outer flap with embroidery or other embellishments at this stage. Just be mindful of the placement of the LOXX button as you get creative.
Place the flap pieces right sides together and secure them with fabric clips. Leave the top straight edge open. Stitch the seam with a 1 cm seam allowance.
After stitching, trim the corners of the flap and reduce the seam allowance to about half. If your fabric frays easily, finish the edges with a zigzag stitch or an overlocker. I like to trim seam allowances with pinking shears.
Next, turn the bag flap through the top opening. Use a corner and edge shaper to neatly form the edges. If your fabrics allow, give the bag flap a good press.
Now, topstitch the bag flap close to the edge. For such visible topstitching and thicker fabrics, I like to use the Edgestitch Foot #10.
Mini-Bag / Carry Wallet Sewing – Preparing the Zippered Wing Pocket
Next, we’ll sew the most complex part of the Mini-Bag. Take your time here, perhaps with a cup of coffee or tea. Work carefully and follow the specified seam allowances, as the zippered wing pocket will later be attached to the outer bag and will remain visible.
Divider
For the divider, you’ll need 2x Piece 4 and Piece 4a from Decovil.
Place the fabric pieces right sides together and secure them with fabric clips. Leave a turning opening of about 6 cm on one long side. Sew the seam with a 1 cm seam allowance, leaving the turning opening open.
Trim the corners and reduce the seam allowance by about half (be careful not to trim the seam allowance at the turning opening).
Turn the divider right side out and shape it with a corner and edge shaper. Then press the divider flat.
Insert Piece 4a from Decovil through the turning opening into the divider. Fold the seam allowance of the turning opening inward and press the Decovil into place according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Wings
Next, you’ll need 4x Piece 4 for the wings of the Mini-Bag’s zippered wing pocket.
Fold each piece lengthwise, aligning the long edges right sides together, and secure with clips. Sew the short edges at the top and bottom with a 1 cm seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance to half its width, turn the wings right side out, and shape them neatly. Then press the wings flat.
Slip Pockets
You will need 4x Piece 6 (2x per pocket). One slip pocket will be integrated into the zippered wing pocket, while the other will later go into the main compartment. To reduce the number of steps, both slip pockets are prepared now. This is also a good opportunity to add labels or embellishments, either on the slip pocket or by sewing them into the side seam.
Place the pieces for each pocket right sides together and secure with fabric clips. Leave a sufficient turning opening along the bottom edge.
Sew the seam with a 1 cm seam allowance, leaving the turning opening open. Then, trim the corners and turn the slip pockets right side out. Shape them neatly and press flat. Fold the seam allowance at the turning opening inward.
Secure the turning opening with a fabric clip. Topstitch the top edge of the slip pocket with a 0.5 cm seam allowance.
Attaching the Slip Pockets
Now, sew the two slip pockets into place. Attach one to a lining piece of the zippered wing pocket. For this, you will need 1x Piece 3 and one completed slip pocket.
If desired, use Style-Fix on the back of the slip pocket to help position it on the lining piece. Alternatively, pin the slip pocket in place with sewing pins.
Measure 4 cm down from the top short edge of Piece 3. Align the top edge of the slip pocket with this line and center it. Sew the pocket in place along the side and bottom edges with a 0.2 cm seam allowance, leaving the top open.
If desired, attach the second slip pocket to one of the main compartment lining pieces (Piece 1 in the lining fabric) now, or sew it in place when assembling the lining.
Sewing the Card Pockets
The zippered wing pocket will include 4 card pockets. For this, you will need 2x Piece 8 in lining fabric.
Place the short edges of each card pocket right sides together and secure with clips. Sew the seam with a 1 cm seam allowance.
Turn the pieces so the seam allowances are centered, and press them open. Then turn the card pockets right side out and press them neatly.
Attach the card pockets to the remaining Piece 3. Mark a line 2 cm from the bottom edge of Piece 3.
Place the first card pocket along this line with the open sides facing the long edges of Piece 3.
Topstitch the card pocket just above the marked line to Piece 3.
Now topstitch the card pocket again at 4 cm, measured from the bottom edge of the card pocket.
Then add the second card pocket. Place this on the bottom edge of part 3 and topstitch it on there, starting with a narrow edge. Then topstitch again at 4 cm, measured from the bottom edge.
The outer edges of the card pockets are then fixed to the long edges of part 3 with a seam width of 0.5 to facilitate further processing.
The lining parts of the zip wing pocket are ready. We now mark the top and bottom centre of each of these with a notch – this is a small incision within the seam allowance. To do this, place the long edges of the lining pieces right sides together. You can then place your notches in the resulting fold at the top and bottom short edge.
Now take the lining piece with the card slots again. Mark a line from notch to notch and topstitch it exactly. The triple straight stitch is ideal here for more stability.
Attach the wings
The lining parts of the zippered wing pockets are ready. We will add the wings to these before assembling the complete zippered wing pocket.
Mark 2 cm on the right and left of the lining pieces, measured from the top edge.
Now add the wings. Place them with the top edge on the markings, the open edges are on the outer edges of the lining pieces.
Now, topstitch the wings on the sides with a 0.5 cm seam allowance within the seam allowance. Be careful not to shift the wings while stitching. It’s best to start stitching on the wing and take a few backstitches at the beginning.
Mini-Bag / Carry Wallet Sewing – Finishing the Zippered Wing Pocket
Next, we’ll assemble the zippered wing pocket.
If you want to embellish the front of the outer pocket with labels, embroidery, or similar decorations, now is the time. Keep in mind that the flap will later cover about 1/3 of the pocket.
Prepare the continuous zipper for the Mini-Bag
You’ll now need the zipper with 6.5 mm teeth, Piece 5 in outer and lining fabric, and two zipper pulls.
Slide one zipper pull onto each end of the zipper and cut the zipper to exactly 56 cm. Since attaching a continuous zipper can be tricky in terms of exact length (factors like interfacing, precise cutting of all pieces, etc., play a role), I recommend the following: First pin the bottom piece to the zipper as described in the following steps, and then test-fit the assembly around the outer part of the wing pocket. If it fits well, proceed with the assembly. If there are discrepancies, shorten the zipper or sew the bottom piece with a smaller seam allowance.
Next, attach one end of the zipper to one short edge of the bottom piece (outer fabric) right sides together (the teeth of the zipper facing the right side of the fabric) and secure with a clip.
Add the lining bottom piece. Place it so the right sides of the two bottom pieces face each other. The zipper will be sandwiched between the two bottom pieces.
Sew this seam with a 1 cm seam allowance, then trim the corners. WARNING: Do not cut into the zipper tape.
It may get a bit tricky now. Lay the free edge of the zipper tape left sides together on the free edge of the lining bottom piece.
Now bring the free edge of the outer bottom piece around without twisting the zipper. Place the outer bottom piece right sides together with the zipper and the lining piece. Secure with fabric clips and sew with a 1 cm seam allowance. Trim the corners again.
Pull “ring” apart and topstitch it close to the edge around the bottom piece. Trim any excess fabric at the sides of the bottom piece.
Fold the bottom piece in half, aligning the short edges, and mark the center of the long edges with a small notch.
Also mark the opposite side with a removable fabric marker. Ensure it can be removed later, as the zipper will remain visible.
Attach Outer Pieces
For the continuous zipper, you’ll need 2x Piece 3 in outer fabric. If not already marked, mark the top and bottom centers of the pieces with notches. Switch to the Zipper Foot #4.
Mark each corner with a 1 cm mark. This makes 8 total 1 cm marks per outer piece.
Next, add the continuous zipper.
Attach Zipper and Outer Piece
Pin the zipper and bottom piece right sides together along the bottom edge of the front outer piece. Align the center notches first, then pin the remaining sections. Sew the seam with a 0.5 cm seam allowance. Leave the first and last cm open as per your markings!
Then clip the corners of the outer fabric up to the seam. Do not cut into the zipper tape.
Next, pin the top edge. Align the center marks of the zipper tape and the top edge of the outer piece. Then pin the rest of the edge. Sew the seam with a 0.5 cm seam allowance, leaving the first and last cm open. Again, clip the fabric close to the seam.
Open the zipper slightly to make stitching easier, but be careful not to twist it. Pin the remaining free edges of the outer piece and zipper tape right sides together and sew these seams with a 0.5 cm seam allowance. Start at the end of the top seam and finish at the end of the bottom seam.
You can now slightly clip the zipper in the curves to help it lay smoothly in the corners.
Connecting the Outer Part and Lining
Now add the first lining piece for the Mini-Bag’s zippered wing pocket. Be sure to connect the outer front piece and the lining piece with the slip pocket (not the card pockets), as this will prevent issues when attaching the LOXX closure later.
Place the lining piece right sides together with the outer front piece and the zipper sandwiched in between. Pin the top edges together and sew the seam with a 0.7 cm seam allowance. You can now sew from edge to edge without leaving 1 cm open.
Then pin the sides together right sides facing and sew these with a 0.7 cm seam allowance. WARNING: Leave the last cm at the bottom edge open.
Leave the bottom edge open this time.
Now trim the seam allowance of the outer and lining pieces at the top edge and sides to about half (do not trim the bottom edge). Do not trim the zipper.
Turn the zippered wing pocket through the bottom opening and shape everything neatly using a corner and edge shaper.
The Second Side
Now we’ll sew the second half of the zippered wing pocket. This process is essentially the same as for the first side. It is, however, slightly trickier since one side is already attached. The pinning and sewing steps are identical, so I’ll keep this brief.
Push the already attached side of the zippered wing pocket inward to access the zipper tape more easily. Opening the zipper will also make sewing much easier; just ensure nothing twists.
Sewing the Second Outer Piece to the Zipper
Pin the still unattached outer piece, aligning the center notch of the bottom edge right sides together with the center notch on the base.
Then pin the rest of the bottom edge and sew the seam with a 0.5 cm seam allowance. Leave the first and last cm open. Trim the outer fabric close to the seam. Align the center notch of the top edge of the outer piece with the top zipper mark. Pin the entire top edge and sew with a 0.5 cm seam allowance. Leave the first and last cm open. Trim the outer piece close to the seam. To help the zipper lay smoothly in the curve, you can slightly clip it.
Now pin the side seams and sew from seam to seam with a 0.5 cm seam allowance.
Connecting the Lining and Outer Part
Now add the second lining piece. Pin the top edges right sides together. The zipper will sit in the middle. Sew the seam from edge to edge with a 0.7 cm seam allowance. Then pin the sides right sides together and sew with a 0.7 cm seam allowance. Leave the last cm near the bottom edge open. Trim the seam allowances to about half their width and turn the second side of the zippered wing pocket through the bottom opening. Shape everything neatly.
Adding the Decovil Inserts
Now take 2x Piece 3a in Decovil. Insert the Decovil pieces through the bottom opening into the inside of the zippered wing pocket. The adhesive side of the Decovil should face the lining.
Press the Decovil according to the manufacturer’s instructions, being careful not to press over the zipper teeth to avoid damaging the zipper.
Finishing the Mini-Bag Zippered Wing Pocket
Fold the 1 cm seam allowance at the open bottom edge of the lining inward and secure it with Style-Fix or pins (be careful with delicate outer fabrics). Topstitch the opening close to the edge, stitching through both layers. On the front side, make sure to stitch below the main part, on the base, so the seam is not visible. For the front part, consider stitching from the outside.
YAY! You’ve tackled the most challenging part. The zippered wing pocket for the Mini-Bag is complete! Time for a well-deserved break… until Part 2!
Free Mini-Bag SOMMAR Pattern
Here’s the pattern for the Mini-Bag SOMMAR:
Download Pattern Mini-Bag SOMMAR (PDF A4)
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