BERNINA Corporate Blog -Hey everyone, let’s continue sewing a Mini-Bag with the free pattern! This is Part 2 of the tutorial. You can find part 1 with the free pattern here in the blog. Good news: with the zippered wing pocket done, you’ve completed the hardest part. Today, we’ll assemble the outer pocket and the interior, combining everything into your new favorite accessory. To get you motivated, here are some pictures of my current favorite Mini-Bag SOMMAR in use:
I sew the Mini-Bag SOMMAR with my BERNINA 570 QE.
Sewing a Mini-Bag – Creating the Outer Pocket
Sewing the Zippered Wing Pocket onto the Front Panel
First, take your completed zippered wing pocket and the outer front panel (Piece 1). For this step, use the Zipper Foot #4 to get as close as possible to the edges.
Mark a line on the outer front panel 2.5 cm from the short bottom edge.
To make positioning the zippered wing pocket on the front panel easier, it’s helpful to place strips of Wonder Tape on the back of the pocket.
Now position the zippered wing pocket on the front of the outer fabric front panel. Align the bottom edge of the pocket with the marked line and center the pocket on the front panel. Open the pocket and secure it with pins.
Fold the wings outward and topstitch the zippered wing pocket close to the edge all the way around the outer front panel. You’re stitching the lining part here, not the bottom of the pocket.
Sewing a Mini-Bag – D-Ring Tabs
For the D-ring holders, take 2x Piece 9 in outer fabric. The pattern is designed for D-rings with a 15 mm bar width. If you want to use wider or narrower versions, you’ll need to adjust the pattern accordingly.
First, fold the long edges of the pieces wrong sides together to create a visible center fold.
Open the fabric pieces again; the center fold can now be used as a guide. Fold the seam allowances of the long edges 1 cm inward toward the center fold. For Oilskin, pressing with your fingers is sufficient, while other fabrics may need ironing.
Now fold everything back along the center and secure the open long edge with fabric clips. Topstitch along both long edges of the tabs close to the edge. I highly recommend using the Reverse Pattern Foot with Clear Sole #34, which is perfect for all kinds of topstitching. Thread the D-rings onto the tabs and secure the top edge with a fabric clip.
Connecting the Side Panel and Front Panel
Take your front panel with the attached zippered wing pocket and the side panel in outer fabric (Piece 2).
First, notch the centers of the long sides of the side panel. Align the center notch of the side panel with the bottom center notch of the front panel, right sides together. Pin the bottom edge of the front panel, leaving the first and last cm open.
Sew the seam with a 1 cm seam allowance, leaving the first and last cm open.
Then clip the seam allowance of the side panel close to the seam. This allows you to pull the side panel around the corner and pin the side seams of the front and side panels together, right sides facing. Sew these seams with a 1 cm seam allowance, starting from the bottom seam.
Trim the corners at the bottom edge and reduce the seam allowance by about half. Using pinking shears is a great option. If your fabric frays excessively, finish the edges with an overlock stitch or zigzag stitch.
Preparing the Back Panel
For the Mini-Bag SOMMAR, you will now need the back panel in outer fabric (Piece 1). Mark 2.5 cm from the edges on the top side, left and right.
Place the D-ring tabs at these marks, right sides together. The D-rings should face downward, and the tabs should extend about 1 cm beyond the top edge. Secure the tabs within the seam allowance (less than 1 cm seam allowance) and sew back and forth a few times for added strength. These tabs will later carry the full weight of the Mini-Bag. You may need to use a height compensator here.
Connecting the Back Panel and Side Panel
Just like with the front panel, connect the back panel to the side panel. Again, align the center notch of the free side of the side panel with the bottom center notch of the back panel. Pin the bottom edge and sew the seam with a 1 cm seam allowance, leaving the first and last cm open.
Clip the side panel within the seam allowance close to the seam and pin the side seams. Sew these with a 1 cm seam allowance starting at the bottom seam. Trim the corners and reduce the seam allowance by half (you know this from the front panel).
Now you can turn your outer bag right side out.
Attaching the Flap
Mark the top center of the flap by folding the edges together and marking the fold with a notch.
Pin the flap right sides together to the outer back panel of the Mini-Bag. The flap should almost reach the side seams. Sew the flap to the top edge of the outer panel within the seam allowance (less than 1 cm seam allowance).
Attaching the Snap Buttons
Now the side panels of the Mini-Bag SOMMAR each get a snap button. These folds give the bag its unique look and add practicality by allowing extra storage space when needed.
You’ll need 2 snap buttons and your preferred tool to attach them.
I recommend reinforcing the inside of the bag before attaching the snaps. You can use Wonder Dots, small Snappap scraps, or some H250 interfacing that you iron on beforehand. Place the reinforcement inside the bag before attaching the snaps.
Make the following two marks on each side panel: 3 cm from the top edge and 1.5 cm from the side seam.
Attach the snaps, following the instructions provided by the button and tool manufacturer. Don’t forget to add the reinforcement inside. IMPORTANT: The closing mechanisms for snapping should be on the outside of the bag.
Here’s what it looks like when closed. For further assembly, you’ll need to open the snaps again for now.
Sewing a Mini-Bag – Creating the Inner Pocket
Now it’s time to work on the lining of the Mini-Bag. Let me say upfront: bag interior design is a very personal topic. Everyone has different needs for their bags. Feel free to design your lining as you wish. I’m just giving you two ideas.
Marking the Lining Pieces
As with the outer fabric, we will first mark the lining pieces with notches.
Mark the top and bottom center of the front and back lining pieces (Piece 1). For the side panel (Piece 2), mark the center of the long edge as well.
Slip Pocket
We already prepared the slip pocket for the lining at the very beginning. Sew it on now (in case you haven’t yet), positioning it about 4 cm from the top edge. One of my must-haves is always a key clip, which I’ve also included here.
Mesh Pocket with Zipper
I added a mesh pocket with a zipper to the back lining of my Mini-Bag.
Cut Piece 1 from mesh fabric, but add 2 cm to the length. Then divide the mesh piece 8 cm from the top edge.
You’ll need a 15 cm zipper with a 4.5 mm coil width and four fabric pieces measuring 2.5 x 3.5 cm. Thread a zipper pull onto the zipper. You’ll also need two pieces of bias tape, each the same width as Piece 1.
Place one fabric piece with its short edge right sides together with each end of the zipper. Place the other fabric piece behind it, so the right sides face each other, with the zipper sandwiched in between. Sew with a 1 cm seam allowance.
Fold the fabric pieces outward and topstitch close to the edge through all layers. The zipper is now prepared.
Place the prepared zipper right sides together with the top edge of the lower mesh pocket piece. Secure it with clips. If desired, you can baste the zipper within the seam allowance.
Now take one strip of bias tape, unfold it, and place it right sides together along the top edge, so the zipper is sandwiched between the fabric layers. Sew along the fold of the bias tape.
Fold the bias tape over the top edge and secure it with clips. Topstitch the bias tape close to the lower edge.
Open up the zipper and mesh piece so that the zipper tape with the bias tape is underneath the mesh. Topstitch close to the lower edge of the bias tape to secure it to the mesh.
Repeat these steps with the other side of the zipper tape and the upper mesh piece.
Finally, take your second Piece 1 in lining fabric. Secure the mesh pocket left sides together on top of Piece 1, sewing it within the seam allowance. If the mesh extends past the edges, trim it back to the edge.
Sewing the Mini Bag SOMMAR – Assembling the Lining
Once you’ve integrated all the desired details into the lining pieces, it’s time to assemble the lining. You’re already familiar with this process from the outer fabric, so I’ll keep it concise here.
Connecting the Lining Pieces
Take the Piece 1 with the mesh pocket and the side panel from the lining (Piece 2). First, align one notch on the side panel with the bottom center notch on Piece 1 with the mesh pocket. Pin the entire bottom edge and sew it with a 1 cm seam allowance, leaving the first and last cm open.
Then, clip the side panel up to the seam to make it easier to shape the fabric around the corners.
Next, bring the sides right sides together, pin them, and sew the side seams with a 1 cm seam allowance, starting from the bottom seam. Trim the corners and reduce the seam allowance by half. Depending on the fabric, finish the edges or trim with pinking shears.
Now it’s time to add the second Piece 1 to the Mini-Bag SOMMAR lining.
Once again, align the notch on the side panel with the bottom center notch of Piece 1 and pin the bottom edge. Sew the edge with a 1 cm seam allowance, leaving the first and last cm open. Clip the side panel up to the seam. Bring one side together, right sides facing, pin the seam, and sew with a 1 cm seam allowance, starting from the bottom seam.
Then, align the other side of the side panel and sew it with a 1 cm seam allowance, leaving a large turning opening (Wendeöffnung) of at least 10 cm.
Sewing a Mini-Bag – Finishing the Carry Wallet
We’re in the home stretch! Just a few more steps and your Mini-Bag will be complete.
Connecting the Outer and Inner Bags
If you haven’t done so already, turn the outer bag right side out so you can see the finished bag. Turn the lining inside out so that the seams are visible.
Insert the outer bag into the inner bag so that the fabrics are right sides together. If you’ve added the mesh pocket to the lining, it should be on the back lining piece.
Secure the top edge with clips, aligning the side seams first and then the rest of the edge. Sew the edge with a 1 cm seam allowance. You may need a height compensation tool in some areas. Using the zipper foot is recommended to easily sew around the attached zipper flap.
Then, turn the bag right side out through the opening. Check that all seams are closed and shape the bag neatly. If everything looks good, fold the seam allowances of the opening inward, pin it, and topstitch it closed.
To keep the lining from shifting out of the bag, topstitch the upper edge of the Mini-Bag. Again, using the zipper foot is helpful. Push the lining into the bag so it’s not visible from the outside. Secure the upper edge with clips, laying the flap upwards. You can’t use clips on the flap area, but pins can be used carefully. Topstitch all around with a 0.5 cm seam allowance.
Attaching the Closure
Now it’s time to attach the LOXX closure. Use the corresponding tool and mark the position of the top part of the button on the flap. Punch a hole in the flap using the tool and screw in the top closure piece.
Next, determine the position of the lower part of the button on the zipper flap by closing the flap with the desired tension and pressing lightly. This will leave an imprint of the top closure on the zipper flap where you can make a mark.
When punching the hole for the lower part of the LOXX button, be careful not to puncture the slip pocket. Punch the hole carefully, insert the closure from the inside through the hole, and screw it in place. From the inside, the closure is hidden within the slip pocket of the Mini-Bag’s zipper flap.
Inserting the Divider
One last piece remains – the divider prepared at the beginning for the Mini-Bag’s zipper pocket. 
This is the last piece remaining!
Open the zipper wing pocket and pull both wings slightly out on one side. Place the divider in the center between the two wings. Pin the divider along one wings’s long edge. Secure it well with clips, then pin the other wing from the opposite side. The divider should now be sandwiched between the wings.
Sew the divider in place with a narrow seam allowance, approximately 0.2 cm.
Next, pull the wings on the opposite side of the zipper wing pocket outward. Bring the divider, already sewn to one side, across and secure it again between the wings with clips. Sew this edge as well with a narrow seam allowance.
Shoulder Strap
YEAH! You did it! Your Mini-Bag just needs a shoulder strap. Feel free to get creative with width, design, and material. A shorter leather strap would also look fantastic. For my Mini-Bag, I chose both a narrow adjustable strap and a wider statement strap.
I hope you enjoy your new Mini-Bag SOMMAR and that it accompanies you on many wonderful adventures.
Hi Im curious as to why there are no directions in a print form. It’s hard to sew and read the computer at the same time. Printing 50 or so pages in color is unrealistic. Is there any way this can be put into a booklet for easy printing and sewing. Thanks
Hi Linda,
You can go to your broswers menu and you can find an option to print the instructions there. If you aren’t happy with the arrangement of images and text, you can copy and paste the instructions into a Word document and rearrange it before you print it.