Sewing a Mini-Bag – Pattern and Tutorial for interchangeable flap

Hello, everyone! Today, I’ve brought you an additional tutorial for sewing the Mini-Bag (with free pattern). I added an interchangeable flap to the spacious carry wallet, making it super practical to adapt the bag’s look without sewing an entirely new one. I’ll show you how to sew such an interchangeable flap. This blog post complements the existing two-part tutorial with the free pattern for the bag, which you can find here:

Part I of the sewing tutorial containing the free pattern
Part II of the sewing tutorial

For inspiration, here’s my new Mini-Bag SOMMAR with an interchangeable flap. Currently, I’m in love with the teddy plush flap. As temperatures warm up, I’ll switch to the embroidered faux leather flap—or perhaps create an entirely new design! Sewing an interchangeable flap for the Mini-Bag is a quick and easy project.

I sew this Mini-Bag SOMMAR variation with my BERNINA 570 QE.

BERNINA 570 QE

Boasting an extensive stitch library for sewing, quilting and embroidery the BERNINA 570 QE offers maximum precision when free-motion sewing, thanks to the BERNINA Stitch Regulator.

Learn more

Mini-Bag Sewing – Part 3: Interchangeable Flap

Differences from the Standard Version

You don’t need additional paper pattern pieces for the Mini-Bag SOMMAR with an interchangeable flap! We’ll simply construct the snap button holder directly on the interchangeable flap using a patchwork ruler.

The sewing sequence doesn’t change much, except that the strap holders are attached AFTER joining the back and side panels, as explained below.

Materials:

Scrap piece of outer fabric: 13.5 cm x 8 cm
3 anorak snap buttons
Scrap piece of Decovil/Decovil light, 4 cm tall and as wide as the back panel
Additional LOXX fastener (upper part)
“Flap” pattern piece from the Mini-Bag SOMMAR, including outer fabric, lining, and interfacing
Wonder Tape

Sewing Instructions for the Interchangeable Flap

Preparing the Snap Button Strip

First, you’ll need a scrap piece of your outer fabric, preferably a stable material. If it’s not stable, reinforce it with Vlieseline H250, which also serves as a tear-out protector for the snap buttons.

Cut your outer fabric piece to 13.5 cm x 8 cm using a patchwork ruler for precision.

Fold the long edges of this piece right sides together and sew the two short edges with a 1 cm seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowances to about half their width, then turn the piece right side out. Use a corner turner to shape the corners neatly. If your fabric can withstand heat, press it flat.

To ease further assembly, it makes sense to close the upper opening within the seam allowance (i.e., with less than 1 cm seam allowance).

Sewing the Flap

Next, you’ll need your bag flap made from outer and lining fabrics. Iron the interfacings onto the pieces according to the original instructions. Draw a 1 cm seam allowance along the long edges and bottom edge of the flap on the back of one fabric piece using a removable marker. There’s a slight difference from the original instructions: On the top edge, also mark a 1 cm seam allowance for 3 cm in from each side. At the end of the 3 cm, draw a line up to the top edge, creating a corner shape for the turning opening.

Pin the flap pieces right sides together and secure with clips. Sew the flap with a 1 cm seam allowance, following the previously marked lines. Leave the gap on the top edge open as the turning opening.

Trim the seam allowances to half their width, clip the corners, and cut into the corners on the top edge, stopping just before the seam.

Turn the flap right side out through the top opening and shape it neatly. If your fabric can handle it, press the flap flat.

Secure the sides and bottom edge of the interchangeable flap with clips.

Using Wonder Tape

Now comes the Wonder Tape. Apply a strip of Wonder Tape to the inner edges of the turning opening. Ensure that the tape is slightly away from the seam line, as sewing over it can cause the needle to gum up quickly.

Peel off the protective film from the Wonder Tape and fold the seam allowances at the turning opening inward by exactly 1 cm. The Wonder Tape will hold everything in place, creating a clean edge at the top.

Attaching the Snap Button Strip to the Flap

Next, we’ll attach the snap button strip to the interchangeable flap of the Mini-Bag SOMMAR.

Apply a piece of Wonder Tape to both sides of the open edge of the snap button strip.

Peel off the Wonder Tape backing and insert the snap button strip exactly 1 cm deep into the previously prepared opening. Secure everything with the Wonder Tape and press firmly. If needed, you can also use a few pins to ensure all layers lie flat and smooth.

Now topstitch the flap around the edges with a 0.5 cm seam allowance. This will close the turning opening and secure the snap button strip in place. Start your stitching at the top edge to secure everything right away.

Next, mark the center of the top edge of the snap button strip with a fabric clip.

Mark a point 1.5 cm below this clip, directly in the center of the snap button strip, using a removable marker.

Also, mark a point 1.5 cm from both the left and right short edges along the center of the snap button strip. These will be the positions for your three snap buttons.

Punch holes at these marked positions using your preferred tool.

Sewing the Interchangeable Flap for the Mini-Bag – Preparing the Back Panel

Preparing the Snap Button Strip

To create the interchangeable flap for the Mini-Bag SOMMAR, we’ll also need to prepare the back panel of the bag accordingly. First, you’ll need your back panel from the outer fabric and a strip of Decovil or Decovil Light measuring 4 cm in height and the width of the bag’s back panel.

Use a quilting ruler to mark a line on the wrong side of the back panel fabric, 4 cm from the short top edge.

Now, iron the Decovil strip onto the back panel. Align the top edge of the strip with the previously marked line.

Next, mark the center of the Decovil strip. Since it is 4 cm high, draw a horizontal line 2 cm from the bottom edge of the Decovil strip. If you haven’t already, mark the center of the top edge of the back panel with a notch (a small cut within the seam allowance).

By aligning a ruler or measuring tape along the top edge, you can easily transfer the center position to the Decovil strip.

Now we have identified the center position on our Decovil strip.

This will help you determine the position of the outer snap buttons. To do this, place the completed interchangeable flap onto the Decovil strip so that the center points (the center of the Decovil strip and the middle hole on the snap button strip) align. Then mark the snap button positions through the pre-punched holes onto the center line of the Decovil.

Now punch holes at these positions for your snap buttons using your preferred tool.

Attaching the Snap Buttons

Finally, we’ll attach the snap buttons to the interchangeable flap and the back panel.

The snap button tops are placed on the interchangeable flap. This ensures the back of the bag looks neat and stylish.

The matching parts of the snap buttons are placed on the back of the bag.

Sewing the Interchangeable Flap for the Mini-Bag – Attaching the D-Ring Straps

Difference from the Original Instructions

In the original instructions, the D-ring straps are attached at this stage, while the back panel is still open. You can also do this with the interchangeable flap version. However, since the position of the D-ring straps changes, I recommend attaching them after you have joined the back panel with the side panel. This way, you can position the D-ring straps as close to the seam transitions to the side seam as possible, ensuring they don’t interfere with the flap (as shown in the next image, note that the bag is already finished here).