Creative articles about sewing

Sew with me: The Esplanade Bra

How have you been faring since we last dived into bramaking? I have a surprise for you. Today we’re making the Esplanade Bra by Orange Lingerie. The Esplanade Bra is a longline strapless bra pattern. 

I’ve never made this pattern before and wanted to test the fit. If you haven’t read my previous two posts on bramaking you can head over here to read up on them.

This longline bra is stabilized with bra lining at the bridge, boning at the sides, and under the cups that are lined with cut and sew foam. All the notions and fabrics are from Spitzentraum.

Collect all your things

Esplanade Bra

All the things you need… Fabric, lining, powernet, bandelastic, underwirecasings, underwires and some boning.

Esplanade Bra

Make sure the cutting you lay the pattern pieces in the direction of the greatest stretch.

Esplanade Bra

Lay out all the pieces according to the way the bra will be constructed.

Start sewing!

Esplanade Bra

Usually the instructions tell you to start with assembling the cups. I like to start with the band.

Esplanade Bra

I underlined my main fabric with powernet to give the thin lycra fabric more stability.

Esplanade Bra

After sewing the seams you will need to topstitch the seamallowances.

Esplanade Bra

This is the cup assembly.

Esplanade Bra

With this as well you topstitch the seamallowances.

Esplanade Bra

As this is a foam cup bra you will need to cover it with your main fabric. The pattern I used already accommodates this.

Esplanade Bra

Since this is a longline bra you will not need to wait before you attach your elastics. (With regular bras you need to wait before the underwire casings are sewn in).

Esplanade Bra

After attaching the elastics trim down the seamallowances to reduce bulk.

Esplanade Bra

Make your second turn on the elastics with a threestep zigzag.

Esplanade Bra

Your bra is nearly finished now. Sew in the cups with a regular stitch.

Esplanade Bra

After you finished your insides you need to sew on the casings for the boning.

Esplanade Bra

For closures I used hook and eye tape.

Esplanade Bra

… and the other side.

What is my verdict? Well, it’s a beautiful bra and it fits reasonably well at the first go. I made a size 40C. As with almost all bra patterns I have used from Orange Lingerie I need to take out a wedge of about 1.5cm (5/8″) at the sides.

Also, I think I prefer using spiral steel boning for future bras. I used spiral steel boning to make corsets and historical costumes and it’s just a lot more stable than the usual boning you get at your local haberdashery. 

That’s it for today. Happy Sewing!

Nadine

Difficulty level: Intermediate
Time to Complete: Weekend
Used Material: Lycra, Rigilene
Used Products:
BERNINA 350 PE
BERNINA 350 PE
Three-sole walking foot #50
Three-sole walking foot #50

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