How have you been faring since we last dived into bramaking? I have a surprise for you. Today we’re making the Esplanade Bra by Orange Lingerie. The Esplanade Bra is a longline strapless bra pattern.
I’ve never made this pattern before and wanted to test the fit. If you haven’t read my previous two posts on bramaking you can head over here to read up on them.
This longline bra is stabilized with bra lining at the bridge, boning at the sides, and under the cups that are lined with cut and sew foam. All the notions and fabrics are from Spitzentraum.
Collect all your things
All the things you need… Fabric, lining, powernet, bandelastic, underwirecasings, underwires and some boning.
Make sure the cutting you lay the pattern pieces in the direction of the greatest stretch.
Lay out all the pieces according to the way the bra will be constructed.
Usually the instructions tell you to start with assembling the cups. I like to start with the band.
I underlined my main fabric with powernet to give the thin lycra fabric more stability.
After sewing the seams you will need to topstitch the seamallowances.
This is the cup assembly.
With this as well you topstitch the seamallowances.
As this is a foam cup bra you will need to cover it with your main fabric. The pattern I used already accommodates this.
Since this is a longline bra you will not need to wait before you attach your elastics. (With regular bras you need to wait before the underwire casings are sewn in).
After attaching the elastics trim down the seamallowances to reduce bulk.
Make your second turn on the elastics with a threestep zigzag.
Your bra is nearly finished now. Sew in the cups with a regular stitch.
After you finished your insides you need to sew on the casings for the boning.
For closures I used hook and eye tape.
… and the other side.
What is my verdict? Well, it’s a beautiful bra and it fits reasonably well at the first go. I made a size 40C. As with almost all bra patterns I have used from Orange Lingerie I need to take out a wedge of about 1.5cm (5/8″) at the sides.
Also, I think I prefer using spiral steel boning for future bras. I used spiral steel boning to make corsets and historical costumes and it’s just a lot more stable than the usual boning you get at your local haberdashery.
That’s it for today. Happy Sewing!