Zip it Up! Part 2: How to sew the zip prominently into a side seam

Welcome to part two of the Zip it Up! series, where we give you tips for sewing various kinds of zips. Part 1 explained how to install an invisible zipper, but zips can be a decorative element and do not need to be hidden. On the front, on the back, on pockets or a side seam zipper: They all offer an athletic or elegant look depending on their color, material and combination with your fabric. Contrasting zippers are particularly eye-catching and can offer a pop of color! Take a peek at this inspiring gallery of various combinations – All outfits are from the inspiration Magazine.

How to sew a prominent side seam zip

A side seam zip at the hem of a skirt is not just a decorative element, but just like a back slit it can offer you more mobility when it’s opened. And the best part: You can add this to any pattern you want!

Knitted dress “Vanessa”, Handbag “Rosalie”

To protect tights from the metal teeth of the zip when wearing this knitted dress, an underlap is added. I’ll show you step by step how to create such a side seam zip. 

Metallic side seam zip

Step-by-step instructions

Please note: The right side of the fabric is shown lighter in the illustrations than the wrong side.

Close the side seam up to the slit marking. Iron the allowances apart and finish them. Draw a parallel line on both sides at a distance of 1 cm from the seam and mark the corner at the top vertically to the seam ( blue dotted line ). Depending on the fabric, the corner should be reinforced with a piece of fabric lining to stabilise it ( grey ). Clip the allowances diagonally to the seam down to the corner ( red arrow ).

Fold the long edges of the slit inwards. The pull of the zip is at the bottom when closed.

Pin the upper end of the zip right side on right side over the centre of the side seam ( for better understanding, it is not placed in the centre yet in the illustration ). From the inside, sew the zip across the top of the cut exactly from corner to corner ( height of red line ).

Align the zip along the inside downwards. Cut back the allowances of the long edges, fold them in and topstitch them from the right on the zip tapes ( illustrations 4 and 5 ).

The underlap is created and sewn lengthwise and crosswise along the front seam allowance on the inside of the zip slit ( red lines ). Depending on the fabric thickness, the underlap should be just a little shorter than the closed zip, but in any case end just above the hem fold line ( grey line ). Tip: With the knitted dress, it is advisable to cut and sew in the slit facing with a folded edge at the bottom. Also sew on the slit facing across the top at the allowance of the back part ( red line at the top of the left half of the picture ).

Looking for more tips and tricks?

We have carefully collected exciting tips and tricks from various inspiration magazines and published them on the blog. This tip is taken from inspiration issue 3-22.

• You can find all zipper tips here: “Zip it Up! The series”
• If you want to read more helpful tutorials, you can find an overview here: “Tips and Tricks”.

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