Hello Bernina Lovers!
In my last article I explained you the different steps to make your own bias tape. You can read it here.
Today, I am going to explain how to sew a bias that will remain invisible. There are different options when talking about bias, some of them are visible in order to stand out or give a nice touch, and the one that I am going to explain here is just for finishing purposes, as it will remain invisible (on the inside) once sewn.
We apply this kind of finishing when the edge has a curved shape (as for instance a neckline, a rounded hem…), because of the way the bias is cut, it allows the fabric to have more stretch in order to better fit the rounded shape of a curved seam.
But you can also use it in any kind of finishing, just to have a nice seam.
Follow these steps to sew an invisible seam…
Place your bias on top of the edge (hem, neckline…) of your fabric, right sides facing (open the bias that is usually folded). Match the edges of the bias and your seam.
Pin your bias and fabric.
Sew the 2 layers on the line created by the fold on the bias. Start and finish with a secure stitch.
Trim the excess of fabric from your garment (not the bias).
Fold the bias completely and place it facing the wrong side of your garment/piece.
Iron flat to make sure it is correctly placed.
Pin all the way.
Top stitch the bias and your garment/piece on the edge of the bias (at 2 mm) to close it.
Please note that these stitches will be available from the outer side so it is recommended to top stitch from the right side to make sure the stitch line that is created is even and nice (but make sure that you stitch all the layers when doing so!).
And this easily, you are done!
You can follow the same steps to sew a visible bias, but instead of placing the bias and the fabric right sides facing, just place the bias right side facing the wrong side of the fabric. When turning the bias, it will be placed on top of the right side of the fabric, and therefore, it will be visible.
You can also see all the steps in this video tutorial: