Creative articles about sewing

Sewing a rolled Frilly Hem on the L850

I can almost smell spring in the air! and today even the sun shined! and the result??? NEW sewing projects!

Mastering new skills!

Im feeling a little spring in my step and inspiration in my finger tips. A new Frilly rolled hem ( Lettuce Hem ) long sleeve Ribbed T-shirt is what Im after. Ive never quite succeeded with a rolled hem! but this I must conquerer! For the small project, I will only need my L850 Overlock, to sew the entire top. Mastering new skills for further projects!

Using up my stash!

Ive have had a gorgeous cotton Ribbed jersey in my stash for a while and Ive finally ! ( only 1,5 years later )  decided on the perfect pattern!
The fabric has a cute little yellow and green printed flower design and perfect for a cute spring top. The light weight structure and stretch is perfect for the effect I want to create. 

The Pattern

I will be using one of my absolute go too patterns, the Nikko top from True Bias. It is a simple basic long sleeve top base. I will be sewing the long sleeve top version, and cutting the roll neck in a single layer.

I have constructed and sewn the garment as with all basic tops, shoulder seams, attached the arms, and closed the underarms and side seams. Next step is to add this frill and the neck line. For this project I will only need to be using my L850 Overlock.

Cutting my pattern pieces out ( Seam allowance is included in the pattern)

Pinning and cutting

Shoulder seams sewn

Arms being attached

Attaching my sleeves

Closing the side seams and underarms.

Simple and effective rolled hems

The pattern has a double folded roll neck, Because I want to add the frilly Lettuce rolled hem, I have cut the neckline in half and have attached as a single layer.

Single layer Neck

Im now all ready for the rolling!

How to Roll the Hems.

After playing around with my overlock I have found the perfect settings to create the lettuce Hem. as with most Overlock seams, try and test out using a scrap of the same fabric until you have the exact look you are wanting. All fabrics act differently. Have patience and adjust the settings a small amount at a time.


Most rolled hems will only use 2-3 threads, ( knocking out the left needle) I however, preferred the fullness with 4 treads.
Use your Manuel for Rolled hem settings as all machines a slightly different. I will be using my L850 Overlock
Machine Settings:

  • Stitch selection: Choose the rolled hem setting (usually marked with an “R”).
  • Stitch length: Adjust the stitch length to your preference, a shorter stitch creates a tighter hem.
  • Cutting width: You can adjust this depending on your desired hem width.
  • Adjusting the machine settings Below are the machine settings I used:

    Firstly it is important to choose the R ( rolled hem setting )

    I have adjusted my thread tensions as seen in the Photo

    Choose again the R for the stitch length, I decreased this later to 1.

    Finally the cutting width needs to be less, I used setting 5.



To create the slightly wavy Lettuce edge, keep tension on the fabric and slowly feed it through the machine, as you can see in the photo the fabric is taut before it is sewn

The combination of the rolled hem settings along with keeping the fabric taut as you feed .. produces this gorgeous end effect.

The result

A really cute neckline

sleeve cuffs and hem with a twist

Im super pleased, ill be using this method to create many new spring perfect tops..

Enjoy using this Tutorial, send me your finished makes, I would love to see them at [email protected]

see you next time and enjoy filling your wardrobes
ps.. for more inspiration check out my Instagram and “sewmebox”


Free sewing instructions: Sewing a rolled Frilly Hem

Difficulty level: Beginner
Time to Complete: Evening
Used Material: bernina L850, coverlock, overlocker, overlocker thread, ribbed fabric, ribbing
Used Products:

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  • sewfuntoys EditEditing comments on the BERNINA blog is only possible after logging in with a blog user account. Sign up now or create a user account if you do not have one yet.

    Such a cute frilly top, perfect for spring weather. The use of a lettuce edge on the sleeves as well as the neckline makes this top “pop”.

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